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Posted: Sat Oct 31, 2009 5:21 am
by davyanderson
Wait, I'm lost... Is this the most time-intensive troll to ever hit this forum, or... yeah...

Posted: Sat Oct 31, 2009 12:26 pm
by JR
....one time. In band camp. I stuck a flute in my......

Posted: Sat Oct 31, 2009 2:07 pm
by KD
JR wrote:....one time. In band camp. I stuck a flute in my......
now that's just a danged 'ol sickness right there.

Posted: Sat Oct 31, 2009 7:32 pm
by steep4me
11D Jug Haul --super steep with clean falls--crux is at the top on smaller rails. Gold Ruch at the Gallery Definitely a must do before 12a

Also--Mama Benson at Dark Side is steep and juggy until the 4th bolt--all falls safe from there. 12a

BetaVul Pipeline at Bob Marley is another steep jug haul until the 5th bolt. Crux after that--all air if you fall. 12a

Chainsaw is a steep endurance 12a that you will not fall on until after the 5th bolt--clean falls.

Posted: Sat Oct 31, 2009 9:40 pm
by Redpoint
Happy Halloween: http://i34.tinypic.com/2z8921g.jpg (self photography over at my local bouldering spot)

Posted: Thu Nov 05, 2009 7:28 pm
by jenbongo
lena_chita wrote: As far as Ro vs. Twinkie, I will have to go againt the prevailing sentiment. Twinkie felt way harder for me. I have only been on it once, and have not sent it yet. Maybe I need a short person beta for the start, b/c that's where I was having most trouble, the roof was fine. But unless you are 5ft tall, YMMV. I probably should go back to it...
I'm going to have to agree with Lena on this one, which is odd because we never agree on anything. She placed the draws for me on Ro and I lead it, but I couldn't even get up Twinkie on TR. (My hardest send is .11a, but I've also lead Spirit Fingers, .11c - you should try that one, too.) Anyway, I think she meant getting off the ground is hard on Twinkie. I'm 5'5 and I still had to cheat to get off the ground. The slab isn't too bad; felt like .11b the way I did it. I got stuck when the steep part got steeper and I didn't have the strength to compensate for my lack of reach to get to the next jug. Oh, yeah, and that was right after I saw the Germans replace the bottom biner on one draw. I replaced another. There were more that needed replacing - as of October 4th.

Posted: Thu Nov 05, 2009 8:52 pm
by Shamis
Ro is fairly safe to climb, dangerous to clean. Think before you unclip.