Twinkie & Ro questions?

Post by **Redpoint** » Fri Oct 30, 2009 2:05 am

I have decided to quit being the clown of the forum(which I didn't mind being btw) and conform to what you all want me to do; sit back and ask questions.

I really want to start my first serious project, and I wanted it to be a really overhung jug haul with a quick approach, and so I was thinking either Ro, or Twinkie, but I can't decide which I should project first.

Now to the questions:

Twinkie: How hard is the slab climbing on the way to the roof, as in what grade is the hardest move on the slab part? One comment said it was 11A, and another said 12A, and what do you all think? I would like a few more opinions, because I don't think I can handle 12A slab yet. I have heard this route is only rated 12A because it's an endurance route, is there any truth to that, or is there really a 12A move on this thing?

Ro: One of my old climbing partners was spraying about climbing 12's at the picnic tables at Miguels, and I asked him if he ever climbed Ro, and he said something like "naa, but screw that route, you can take a nasty fall at the(or did he say trying to clip) the third bolt anyways". Does anybody know what he's talking about, is this a pretty safe route to take falls on? I would hate to crack my lead head open on the first hard project I ever attempted(just joking I'll actually be wearing my helmet for these climbs).

Post by **dhuff** » Fri Oct 30, 2009 2:36 am

Neither has hard moves. Twinkie's slab isn't hard, just some weird disgustingly chalky/polished holds. Ro is nothing but huge holds. I don't see (unless you have a terrible belayer) how you could have a nasty fall on either one of these once you get the first one or two bolts clipped.

Post by **Brentucky** » Fri Oct 30, 2009 2:38 am

If a long draw is hanging at the third bolt on Ro it is easy to clip; otherwise it is tough and potentially dangerous hanging the draw if this climb is at your limit (was damn tough for me anyway).

Post by **Izzy** » Fri Oct 30, 2009 5:04 am

I think there's at least three or four videos of people climbing RO on youtube. It might help to watch them.

Post by **pawilkes** » Fri Oct 30, 2009 10:21 am

The slab on Twinkie is probably about 11b, but its more committing than anything. I think Twinkie is the more straight forward route. Ro takes a bit more body positioning and technique. I personally felt Twinkie was easier

Post by **Saxman** » Fri Oct 30, 2009 11:30 am

Your spray list has your hardest lead as 10b. Going from 10b to 12a is one hell of a jump. Good luck.

Post by **Savage** » Fri Oct 30, 2009 12:04 pm

Ro is definitely more powerful than twinkie. If you are tall, twinkie's slab becomes easier and you can reach past the bad holds on the overhang. Overall, I reckon its easier..just pumpy.

Post by **Artsay** » Fri Oct 30, 2009 12:32 pm

pawilkes wrote:The slab on Twinkie is probably about 11b, but its more committing than anything. I think Twinkie is the more straight forward route. Ro takes a bit more body positioning and technique. I personally felt Twinkie was easier

My thoughts exactly.
Do Twinkie. It's so fun and probably gets less traffic than Ro.

Post by **krampus** » Fri Oct 30, 2009 12:37 pm

I consider myself a pretty damn good belayer and a fall at the third (on ro)can put your feet on the ground.....softly. I think most injuries occur while cleaning. Twinkie is super fun, so long as you don't have to clean it.

Post by **jordancolburn** » Fri Oct 30, 2009 12:37 pm

well, i've worked on both, but sent neither, so maybe I can offer some insight from someone who doesn't warm up on .12's(or send them....yet). I think Ro seemed a little easier. The slab part of twinkie wasn't too hard, I like the have the second bolt clipped to start though(the first one will keep you from tumbling off the edge, but not sure you wouldn't hit the ledge). Hard part(for me) comes maybe halfway to the roof.
Ro seemed easier overall (I gave it a solid go when I had sent nothing harder than .10s) None of the moves take a lot of thought, just long reaches and endurance, while twinkie seemed to make me think a little more. I didn't think the third clip of RO was a problem, but I always reach way up and clip from really low (probably more dangerous, but i'm more comfortable doing it)