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Posted: Mon Dec 29, 2008 3:27 pm
by Myke Dronez
so is it cool to poach a bolted crack with gear if its redtagged by an equipper? the quandary continues-
Posted: Mon Dec 29, 2008 4:18 pm
by pigsteak
absoutely
Posted: Mon Dec 29, 2008 8:25 pm
by 512OW
elcapitan1974 wrote:How long did it take Cobra crack to be freed? Years from what Ive read, and only freed in the last few years. 14a I believe is the rating. How long does it take a 14a sport route to be freed after bolted?
Maybe its just that the right people hadn't tried it. Ethan did it in a few days, as did Segal and Nico. The grade was settled at 14b/c.
All who worked it have commented that you really only get 2 good tries a day, and sometimes only 1, because the pain was so much, so it was hard to "work" like a sport route. It took Nico 15 tries over 8 days... with a friendlier route that could have easily been 3 days.
Nobody has used Sonnies original beta either, and they all feel his way was at least 14c... maybe d.
Posted: Mon Dec 29, 2008 8:26 pm
by 512OW
Myke Dronez wrote:so is it cool to poach a bolted crack with gear if its redtagged by an equipper? the quandary continues-
Yeah, but none of the "traddies" in the Red climb harder than 5.10, so I'm not worried...
Posted: Mon Dec 29, 2008 8:35 pm
by pigsteak
512OW wrote:Myke Dronez wrote:so is it cool to poach a bolted crack with gear if its redtagged by an equipper? the quandary continues-
Yeah, but none of the "traddies" in the Red climb harder than 5.10, so I'm not worried...
not true, you hater. I saw a traddie with all his jinglies out at bruise brothers the other day, cruising a 5.10. he let anyone within earshot know that he would soon be moving up to 11a.
At first, I thought he was a noob, but after seeing the trad rack, I wasn't sure. It is difficult to differentiate between the two.
Posted: Tue Dec 30, 2008 2:57 am
by ynot
512OW wrote:Myke Dronez wrote:so is it cool to poach a bolted crack with gear if its redtagged by an equipper? the quandary continues-
Yeah, but none of the "traddies" in the Red climb harder than 5.10, so I'm not worried...
I'm laughing here. so true.....
Posted: Tue Dec 30, 2008 11:12 pm
by jlutotherescue
maybe instead of using trad as the word to describe a route we should be saying "gear protected" or better yet SPORT!
ive projected gear protected lines, sat on cams, taken falls, and spents multiple days on some routes and in my opinion......thats sport style. i might be placing gear but there is nothing traditional about an ascent that way.
this is new school!
Posted: Tue Dec 30, 2008 11:32 pm
by pigsteak
jlu...the first bright idea out of the "trad" camp.....ya gotta remember though, most of your "gear" brethern don't project routes, b/c they only climb 3-6 weekends a year, and to project would mean to admit failure at times. traddies prefer to hide behind their excuses for sucking.....
the gear was tricky
the gear sucked
the crack was wet
instead of...
I am too weak and suck
or
I am too lazy to be a real climber, but I like the idea of calling myself a climber, so I will hide behind "trad" climbing, where we get late starts, hike for two hours, climb two pitches, spend an hour getting stuck gear out, let all my buds TR my sick 5.8 proj, go drink some beers, spray about it at miggies.....and then the audacity...they call it a "climbing day"...dooooods, that is closer to harry the hiker than reggie the redpointer.
Posted: Tue Dec 30, 2008 11:45 pm
by ynot
yer crack is wet hehehehe
Posted: Wed Dec 31, 2008 3:24 pm
by L Day
512OW wrote:Myke Dronez wrote:so is it cool to poach a bolted crack with gear if its redtagged by an equipper? the quandary continues-
Yeah, but none of the "traddies" in the Red climb harder than 5.10, so I'm not worried...
So what happened to the traddies that could climb? Did all of them either move away or turn into sport weenies? I guess you're not counting those who, ahem, "swing both ways". I mean climb sport and trad.