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Posted: Fri Dec 05, 2008 11:27 am
by rjackson
512OW wrote:There is no real climbing while placing gear. Lets all just face it.
Don't go towards light!

Posted: Fri Dec 05, 2008 11:28 am
by der uber
There's personal rules/opinions that folks hold, and there's general consensus. I agree with you reagarding the preclipping of draws.

Pigsteak, does your spray list comply with your own standards?

Posted: Fri Dec 05, 2008 11:32 am
by Brentucky
pig's spraylist is nearly flawless i'm sure. i've NEVER seen him break the majority of his own rules. :mrgreen:

Posted: Fri Dec 05, 2008 11:39 am
by rjackson
pigsteak wrote:I keep a notebook at home...
It's all in the book. Funny how climbing always comes back to religion.

Posted: Fri Dec 05, 2008 11:43 am
by pigsteak
while I admit it is fun to talk about my FLAWLESS spray list, let's digress to the original question.

when you send, or see someone else send, is there ANYTHING that is "off limits" that would prevent you from saying you sent route?

if I step on a bolt, would that disqualify my send?

Posted: Fri Dec 05, 2008 11:43 am
by ahab
512OW wrote:There is no real climbing while placing gear. Lets all just face it.
perhaps a screen name change is in order. here are a couple suggestions.

512SW (spurt weenie)
512OLDW
512SCARED

Posted: Fri Dec 05, 2008 11:46 am
by der uber
pigsteak wrote: if I step on a bolt, would that disqualify my send?
yes

Posted: Fri Dec 05, 2008 11:51 am
by pigsteak
if I keep the first 3 bolts (thru the crux) on an 8 bolt route pre clipped, does that negate a lead ascent?

Posted: Fri Dec 05, 2008 11:52 am
by rjackson
Inadvertently stepping on the bolt without weight, count the send. Purposely using the bolt as a hold, no send.

The real issue though is when will a governing body be established to generalize the rules across the board. Professional sports rely on written rules and regulations, accepted by those who choose to play. Unfortunately, climbing as 'sport' does not have the benefit of said body, and until then, it's all arbitrary.

Nice deflection by the way...

Posted: Fri Dec 05, 2008 11:53 am
by Meadows
pigsteak wrote:
when you send, or see someone else send, is there ANYTHING that is "off limits" that would prevent you from saying you sent route?

if I step on a bolt, would that disqualify my send?
If you're highly competitive, yes.