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pigsteak corollary......10-C: a "real" victory whipper is confirmed when one ascends to the two bolt anchor at the top, currently known as "the chains", and proceeds to bail from said system. to be counted as a bona fide victory whipper, several things must occur

1-don't be a wuss, and clip the chains
2- don't inform your belayer "I'm gonna jump", or any other uncool warning
3-don't do it at Muir
4-don't jump, and then say you "sent" the route (you didn't)
5- above all, please don't let out a blood curdling whine-scream like spragwa

Said victory whipper will:

A-raise your spray status around the ganja fire at Miguel's
B-make you the laughin stock of all "real" climbers (please see earlier threads for the definition)
C-make you the hero for all gumby college "dudes...brah" who taught their girlfriend to belay 3 minutes ago....
D-give you no bigger stones than you had prior to the showmanship spectacle...

Enjoy.

I believe that if Rick's research indicates that victory whippers place more wear on the anchors then he is willing to risk, people should shut up about it. Just because you consider yourself an expert on anchor wear and tear does not mean that someone else can't come along with better, new research. That should not threaten your status as a "safe" climber or make you any less of a climber. You can still look down on other people for not being as safe as you are. Your opinion that it isn't worse for wear is still valid but that doesn't make Rick WRONG. They are opinions. His founded in science, other opinions founded on experience. Get over it and leave the guy alone.

Well said, Morgain.

Say you're working a route. You keep falling at the crux. Should there be a set number of times that you are allowed to fall? Should one feel guilty if he/she falls repeatedly knowing full well that this is bad for the bolts and that the route is less safe for subsequent climbers?

yes...go home on your woodie and get stronger.

Hmmmmm. Well, don't ask me. I can't even get a straight answer as to whether a person can be belay trained on the easier routes at Muir or if only experienced climbers with experienced belayers are allowed.

I'm still confused.

Don't be thinkin' what I'm thinkin' brother. You dunn took a whipper that a make most people quit climbin'.

Sunshine wrote:Say you're working a route. You keep falling at the crux. Should there be a set number of times that you are allowed to fall? Should one feel guilty if he/she falls repeatedly knowing full well that this is bad for the bolts and that the route is less safe for subsequent climbers?

i'm pretty sure that's not what they're getting at. they're talking about big falls that are soley for the sake of falling, not climbing.

Big fucking deal. Small price to pay to climb on quality stone.

a. Climb route
b. Clip chains
c. Lower
d. Move on to next route
e. Repeat

SCIN wrote:Big fucking deal. Small price to pay to climb on quality stone.

a. Climb route
b. Clip chains
c. Lower
d. Move on to next route
e. Repeat

Exactly.