RRC Archives

Oh yeah, can't forget those, or Fuzzy! Wait a minute-If you're gonna be cool and work the 12 wall at military, you've got to warmup on Fuzzy. Silly me.
Then there's Seek the Truth!

I think Sport for Brains is hard shit for 11d.

Mj

Sikmonkey, I don't see this strange behavior in people seeking 5.13 routes as much as I see it in people seeking 5.12 routes.

On another note.

I am sick of route grades being up or down graded.
The first people to work a route should be respected and the grade should kept as is, if this means that there are a few “easy” or “sand-bagged” routes then so be it.

I agree. When I first did the guidebook, I changed some ratings around that were obviously over/under rated. I then saw that not everyone agreed with the changes and realized that there is no grade in the world that everyone will agree on.

Then John Bronaugh gave me a good tip (and he has a lot of experience in this area). He said that his rule is to not change the rating of a route unless it is off by at least 2 number grades from what the FA gave it. I've been trying to stick to that now. I want to respect what the FA says because it is their route as far as I'm concerned.

Very respectful of you to naturally think that way Party Boy.

I agree. I don't change difficulty ratings without contacting the FA and getting their input or approval. On long established routes, it seems pointless to even debate the issue. There will always be disagreement. On newer routes, it has been my experience that FA's are open to adjustments after their routes have seen some traffic.

Perhaps we can circumvent some of these ratings brawls by confirming the orginal ratings and, if there is a huge outcry that the original rating is incorrect, contacting the FA for their input.

This is why I have not changed the rating on Green Horn at Solar Collector. The FA rates it at 5.11b.

So that said, what is the original rating of Ro Shampo? It is not in Chris and Porter's book, and John's second edition has it at 5.12a. Rhunt states

It use to be 12a back in the day, I think even printed as such in one of the older guide books.

however this seems to be speculation (no offense intended, Rhunt). T-bone has Porter's original guide which has it at 11c/d, so at this point, we will leave it at 5.11d unless someone has documentation that the FA says different.

Next!

my philosophy: don't worry about grades.....just climb till you fall

SCIN wrote:Sikmonkey, I don't see this strange behavior in people seeking 5.13 routes as much as I see it in people seeking 5.12 routes.

Oh it's still there, but has metamorphisized along with their climbing ability...trust me, it's still there. You see everyone sprays, they just differ in their delivery method. Some may try their best to disguise it as a thoughtful discussion on things, while others do it more overtly and directly. It's not a bad thing either way. In the end though, we all do it because we are excited about something new and want to share it with other people. What's the reason someone new to 5.12 doesn't spray much about doing some 5.11? For the same reason someone new to 5.11 doesn't spray much about doing a 5.10. It just doesn't hold the same level of excitement for them at that particular moment.

Mj

p.s. - I appreciate your effort to try to bring me down a notch and keep me humble with your indirect comments regarding "someone new to climbing 5.12" or the avatar you gave me, etc, but I embrace the fact that I am excited about achieving new levels of performance in climbing because I know that if someone is going to dislike me because of something like that, then they have issues that need be addressed by a perfessional anyway.

Holy shit dude, you're freaking me out. Do you think I've been reading everything you write and tracking your climbing progress? I have no idea what you've been climbing or have climbed. I've been climbing for about 10 years, so do you think I haven't seen a pattern with what people do and say as they progress through the grades? Usually I'm speaking from experience when I'm analyzing things because I've probably done the same thing in the past. Shit, my spray from the old days would put anyone's to shame on this board!

I wasn't trying to put down spraying. I was, as I usually do, talking about how some climbers limit themselves by not focusing on onsighting routes slightly beneath their level. Instead they focus on sending a 5.12 just so they can say they've done 5.12 (5.13, 5.14..whatever). I just think that is so gay. I'm not saying it's not allowed. I'm just saying that I think it's gay.

I gave you the title as a joke, that's all. Because I was reading some thread about wasps or something and all of a sudden Sikmonkey is going off about how he's working John Henry and is going to do Uncle Jed's Revenge after he sends John Henry, right in the middle of a wasp discussion! You have to admit that's funny of yourself. So I gave you the Spraydawg title. I'll pass it on to the next Spraydawg when I see it. I may even give myself the title when I send Ol' Kentuck this fall because I'm sure as shit going to spray about it.

Are you a sensitive woman? Can I tickle your clit?

HA HA! You said 'sensitive'.... I am just having a hard time walking the line between "focused" and "obsessed".

Mj