RRC Archives

vertical1 wrote:

chriss wrote:

pigsteak wrote: all cool, as long as you count every hang on the rope as one go....so in your 'sesh", you actually sent it on, oh, perhaps your 34th go of the day...just be honest,that's all.

That is why I only count the number of times that I rope up.

Does that mean if I rope up, and don't untie, then I can send it first go?

dustonian wrote:Counting your "goes" on sport routes after blowing the flash or onsight attempt is WAY fruity. Seriously, unless you're climbing 15a no one gives a damn. Even then it's pretty damn boring.

SCIN wrote:I've gotten my rope stuck on SBF and have seen others get their stuck. I even rescued someone's rope for them. If there's any route in the Red that needs permas it's SBF.

There's nothing "strong" or "weak" about project draws on a route. If someone is too "weak" to hang their own draws they can easily just stick clip them up. Just because it feels impossible to hang draws on a line doesn't mean you shouldn't be on it. It just means you haven't found the clipping stance, pinch, micro-crimp, thumb smear, etc yet.

TradMike, If you've never had to grab the stick clip to hang a draw or place a cam (I've done that) then it means you aren't pushing yourself hard enough. When you choose to take on a line that pushes you to the max you will barely be able to hang onto some holds or fingerlocks long enough to shove in pro or clip a draw. Plenty of hard trad lines were sent with some pre-placed pieces due to the difficulty of the placement. Do you ever watch climbing videos? Do you ever see Ondra hanging his draws when he sends 5.15?

Popular routes will always have pre-hung draws because people leave behind project draws. All of the hard lines I've sent had either someone else's draws or my own draws pre-hung when I did them. The arguments against perm-draws shouldn't involve comments about being "too weak to hang them" because pre-hanging will happen regardless on tough lines.

chriss wrote:

fray21 wrote:If I'm working a route and another climber walks up to the cliff and informs me that he is ready for his red point burn I'm not going to lower off the route and let him/her go. I would politely inform the climber that this is a working burn and it might be 30 minutes. I don't feel the difficulty of the route or my current redpoint level play into the etiquette for this situation. I was on the route first and should not feel pressured to get off the route for someone else.

Agreed!

With so many other routes at the solarium and the arsenal, jump on another route. Then again, if you can't handle waiting for 30 minutes you may need to work on your patience.

fray21 wrote:If the perma-draws were not hung and they got on the climb you would have been waiting a lot longer for them to finish and clean the route. You should be thankful the line had project draws.

I do understand your annoyance, we have all been there before when going to get on a project, but we have to remember that everyone has the privilege to climb any route. If I'm serious about a project I try to get out early to make sure I won't have a problem getting on it at somepoint in the day.

dustonian wrote:So stop mewling on here about it... tell Rick Weber you don't approve of steel draws on the route and would like to go back to jingus aluminum razors because you had to wait too long for your sick 11d proj, brah. Damn those volunteers and permadraw donors for fulfilling a landowner request and trying to keep a very popular route safe!!