RRC Archives

climb2core wrote: I don't think the grade should have anything to do with someone's ego.

That there, is a funny statement.

Snap +1

Tania, any tips in resting on BMT?

stix wrote:...walk over to c & s to grab a beer, do em again, share one with bob...

That's the best thing that's been said on this thread.

steep4me wrote:Tania, any tips in resting on BMT?

Climb fast to the ledge at the 4th, recover what you can, climb fast through the 5th and clip the 6th from the side-pull above, then gun it for the jug mid-way between bolt 7 and 8, shake for as long an you need, then clip the anchors from the massive ledge above them.

Brentucky wrote:

climb2core wrote:I don't know... I don't find that move that hard on Freakin Deacon. But long dynamic throws to good holds is my bread and butter.

So if that move isn't that hard, then why is your name not on the spray list? The rest of the climb is pretty mellow. It could be I just didn't find the appropriate beta, but I thought the dynamic move was from some piss poor holds (for a 12a that is).

I got on it at the end of the day. Missed it the first go, and did the move the second try. It'll go big guy

stix wrote:why are we arguing of the grades of warmups? that whole wall is rad. just do em, walk over to c & s to grab a beer, do em again, share one with bob if he's around, give thanks for not having to climb in weber world, and call it a day.

Keenan,

While it is your right to not get along with whoever you choose, you should at least be thankful that the 35,000 user visits or so a year at Muir are not descending on the crags where you climb. Muir is plays an integral part of the Red, and anyone not willing to appreciate that it is just sticking their head in the sand.

climb2core wrote:

tania wrote:Yeah, I worked it a lot, but why does that matter?? Does a letter grade really make that much of a difference? I'd rather have routes graded so that there is never a chance of downgrading, ever, than have something graded to fluff my ego.

How about just grading it accurately and let the chips fall where they may. I don't think the grade should have anything to do with someone's ego.

There is no such thing as "grading it accurately", because, as Andrew summed it up, everyone is different.

We could go forever making lists of climbs in order of difficulty, and everyone's lists would be different.

IMO, the farther away you are from an "average climber"(male, and about 5'8"), the more you will feel that the grades are all over the place. For example, I think Andrew's Tecumseh's Curse, once graded "11b", now slightly closer to the truth at 11d, is harder than over two dozens of 12s that I have sent, at the Red, New, Maple, Red Rocks and Ten Sleep. But I suck at long moves. I find individual moves on Break the Scene very hard, and there are several of them, both long and hard, harder than any moves on Ale8 or Mercy for me. But I am not very good at hand jamming. I can continue this pointless list, but nobody cares to see my list, except me.

lena_chita wrote:

climb2core wrote:

tania wrote:Yeah, I worked it a lot, but why does that matter?? Does a letter grade really make that much of a difference? I'd rather have routes graded so that there is never a chance of downgrading, ever, than have something graded to fluff my ego.

How about just grading it accurately and let the chips fall where they may. I don't think the grade should have anything to do with someone's ego.

There is no such thing as "grading it accurately", because, as Andrew summed it up, everyone is different.

We could go forever making lists of climbs in order of difficulty, and everyone's lists would be different.

IMO, the farther away you are from an "average climber"(male, and about 5'8"), the more you will feel that the grades are all over the place. For example, I think Andrew's Tecumseh's Curse, once graded "11b", now slightly closer to the truth at 11d, is harder than over two dozens of 12s that I have sent, at the Red, New, Maple, Red Rocks and Ten Sleep. But I suck at long moves. I find individual moves on Break the Scene very hard, and there are several of them, both long and hard, harder than any moves on Ale8 or Mercy for me. But I am not very good at hand jamming. I can continue this pointless list, but nobody cares to see my list, except me.

My point was to grade it accurately for whatever you felt it was. I don't believe that Tania felt it was 12b when she first started working it. But, maybe I am wrong. She seemed to be making a point of downgrading for downgrading sake.

lena_chita wrote:There is no such thing as "grading it accurately", because, as Andrew summed it up, everyone is different.

We could go forever making lists of climbs in order of difficulty, and everyone's lists would be different.

IMO, the farther away you are from an "average climber"(male, and about 5'8"), the more you will feel that the grades are all over the place. For example, I think Andrew's Tecumseh's Curse, once graded "11b", now slightly closer to the truth at 11d, is harder than over two dozens of 12s that I have sent, at the Red, New, Maple, Red Rocks and Ten Sleep. But I suck at long moves. I find individual moves on Break the Scene very hard, and there are several of them, both long and hard, harder than any moves on Ale8 or Mercy for me. But I am not very good at hand jamming. I can continue this pointless list, but nobody cares to see my list, except me.

Easy solution: get rid of letter grading and go back to + and -... 5.10-, 5.10, 5.10+, etc. But since the new guidebook is coming out soon, guess nothing like that will happen anytime in the near future. So for now I'll just vote everything down a letter grade or two