RRC Archives

I suggest sticking by the Muir mantra: If it's X or R, bolt that section, especially since it sounds like it's already a mixed route. In this era of litigation, injury lawyers, and closures, don't open up any chances to hurt ourselves physically, financially or otherwise. I understand the aesthetics and tradition bit, but let's be realistic. Imagine telling this to your kids, "I'm sorry you can't climb anymore but we [our generation] thought that purity was more important than placing a few bolts to help insure the continuation of our sport." EVERYTHING changes with time. If it can't change and adapt it will cease to exist. We must seriously consider which is more important to us, our history or our future. It's hard to endorse retrobolting a lot of these X and R sections, but I think it's very responsible to bolt "new" routes to insure that they're still open for future generations.

Or, telling the future generations that sorry, all of the good bolt locations have been used up you are just going to have to trad it. Just overlook all of the holes all over the place. They do make good wasp dens though.

As I get older and lamer units get heaiver!