Mixed route at Torrent

[Sunshine]

I did a 5.11 mixed route (two bolts at the start) at Torrent. I am thinking about bolting it for the following reasons. I think it would be more fun. I think I could eliminate most the rope drag. I and the rest of Team Suck would do it often. The route starts on a face, then goes over two small roofs (crux) to a sit down rest, up a short dihedral to an off-width roof that diminishes to hands and then fingers as you traverse out from under it. Lay off a few finger locks up a steep left leaning section to another sit down rest. Undercling a move or two as you step onto a short face up to a 5.7 chimmney to the anchors. This all takes place in about 80 feet of climbing with a net traverse of about 45 degrees and 10-15' of overhang. You have to use full length and double runners to reduce rope drag. I would definately do the route often if I didn't have to "trad it". It's called Dark City. Any comments?

[KD]

it sounds like a cool route

[J-Rock]

Do it! You have always had a good eye for a quality route!

[Wes]

Yep, might as well add some bolts to it, since no one is climbing it on gear anyway. Might be a fun way for some traddies to check out a 5.11 crack without having to deal with the gear. I would do it with bolts or without, but would be more likely to do it more often if it was bolted.

Wes

[J-Rock]

I wouldn't put a bolt next to an obvious gear placement though unless the gear is really bad. If it has poor protection that would result in a possible injury if the climber were to fall then only put a bolt in those places. Hell, I shouldn't be giving advice to you since you know this stuff much better than I do.

[Steve]

Are you sure you haven't already bolted the entire thing already? Just coming around here posting for some positive affirmations to make you feel better after committing such an act? Will this line attract the masses? Hordes of skinny sport climbers from the great flat north waiting in line to throw their bodies at such varied climbing to boost their on-line tick list...such a slipery slope. Do watcha like, but nothing wrong with leaving it as a mixed line.

Did anybody else actually *see* Sunshine doing the beta dance as you read the post?

[Guest]

slippery slope indeed! Didn't he already bolt a crack over at In-Between/The Arena??

Sunshine, you sneaky devil, we've got your number baby! As much as we love you and want to let you have your fabulous way with the rock however you see fit, we want you to stop, drop and roll if you find yourself on fire.

[haas]

I disagree with bolting a crack for any reason if you can get in reasonable gear. Again, as J-Rock said saftey is a concern and if the rock is bad, that's a different story. Persoanlly I don't think that by adding bolts to make the route more popular is justification of bolting where gear will go. I do understand about rope drag and that is a biatch and there's tons of routes in the red that would go on gear but are sport routes and all that jazz, plus it is private property so it's whatever Mark says. You seem to have good judgement and many quality routes so I guess that's my two cents.

[haas]

Is it that grungy dihedral crack roughly 60ft. right of It's Alive? I looked at doing that last summer, just curious though

[J-Rock]

Ah, I know the route now. I remember somebody showing it to me and saying that Terry had climbed it.