vertical1 wrote:I guess you have never hung all over a route. I have, and promptly sent second go.
correct... i always send promptly on my first go... sorry you don't have my luck...
vertical1 wrote: The matter is that she has a right to be on the route as much as someone who climbs it blindfolded as a warmup.
i agree... but, it's not a matter of rights...
i have the right to take my non-climber friend out to the crag with me and slap a grigri in his hands and have him belay me on a route... but then when i fall and deck (which wouldn't happen, because i don't ever fall...) because i didn't properly teach him how to use the grigri it's up to the others at the crag to step in and deal with the situation...
i wouldn't do that because it's irresponsible of me... just like a 5.10 climber shouldn't get on a 5.12 route because it's irresponsible of them...
and i'm not saying that this particular girl had no right to be on that particular route... i'm just using the scenario as a generalization... it happens all to often that someone gets on a route that is way out of their ability level just because it has fixed gear on it and there is no consequence to them directly... but the consequence instead gets placed on the route and on the fixed gear, and then it gets placed on climbers like you and i that are donating our own money to help maintain these routes...
oh, and i also have the right to pee and poop where ever i want in the middle of the woods, because i don't care about LNT ethics and i don't care if you step in it when you are hiking up to the crag... and i don't care because i'm leaving from my road trip in a week, so it's not a problem to me, i'll just leave it up to the locals to clean up my mess...
vertical1 wrote:As far as tissue tiger, it doesnt have perma draws but is substantially more "polished" than chainsaw, so mentioning it in your argument makes no sense.
yes, but tissue tiger tiger is 4 years older than chainsaw, and i've seen tissue tiger with fixed gear on it at times... and i'd be willing to bet that tissue tiger gets more gang-banged by 5.10 climbers than chainsaw ever does based on the other routes that are at military compared to the other routes that are at the lode...
there are way too many other factors that go into it to just say that mentioning tissue tiger in my argument makes no sense.
my point is, go get in tissue tiger if you haven't been on it recently... it's quality has declined significantly compared to a few years ago, let alone compared to when the route was put up...
vertical1 wrote:But I will say thanks for donating, as I have done the same.
you're welcome, and thanks to you too for your donation...