RRC Archives

SCIN wrote:

Redpoint wrote:

caribe wrote: You can search the online guide by grade . . . I am just saying . . .

I did an advanced search for overhung jug hauls between 5.11A - 5.12A and I got the result of:

Routes 1 - 0 (of 0 routes found)

So I figured you all would be a lot more help.

Try the search again but specify "Jugs" instead of "overhung jug hauls"

Hu, you know what the problem was, when it asked what grade, I put 5.11A and 5.12A in there and I didn't get any results. So just now I only put 5.11 and 5.12 without the A, and it worked.

Up yonder (way up yonder to the first set of chains) at roadside is a pretty cool overhanging jughaul 11b.

I will buy Redpoint his choice of 6 pack if he can send Twinkie by 12/18 with me or someone I know as a witness. Why 12/18? His hardest redpoint is 10b, so that gives him one week per letter grade.

Saxman wrote:I will buy Redpoint his choice of 6 pack if he can send Twinkie by 12/18 with me or someone I know as a witness. Why 12/18? His hardest redpoint is 10b, so that gives him one week per letter grade.

Ah you said you would never climb with me again since I don't enjoy putting up with your negative attitude, or was it because I talk too much. No really if you have a change of heart I would love for you to give me some catches on Twinkie, as long as they are dynamic and you don't give me a static one just to try and break my kneecaps on purpose, wait I am having some trust issues with you at this time.

Redpoint, what gym do you go to? I would love to take a shot at your 11. I just sent my first gym 5.9+ last week. Give me the scoop, man. I'm ready to push these grades even higher.

First, send some overhanging easy 11s.

Whipstocking at Drive-By, Monkey in the Middle at the Zoo, Fuzzy Undercling at the Military, Toker at Bob Marley, Greenhorn& Mona Lisa Overdrive at Solar Collector.


As far as Ro vs. Twinkie, I will have to go againt the prevailing sentiment. Twinkie felt way harder for me. I have only been on it once, and have not sent it yet. Maybe I need a short person beta for the start, b/c that's where I was having most trouble, the roof was fine. But unless you are 5ft tall, YMMV. I probably should go back to it...

I had no trouble hanging draws on Ro. I admit that I like to let other people hang the draws for me, and if I had either Camhead or his stickclip, I probably would not have hung my own draws on it.

Redpoint wrote:I was also able to climb the 5.12 at my gym, but I didn't enjoy the extremely balancey crimpy crux, most people ended up skipping a hold and doing it some crazy way, but you still had to use this crimp to do it. I am going to go back to the gym to project that route next month, hopefully it will get me ready for The Return of Chris Snyder.

Plastic pulling grades translate directly to outdoor climbing and if you don't have technique the best way to improve in the grades is to go after jughauls

A book I read said that indoor climbs often try to compensate for their short length by making back to back hard moves of the grade they are supposed to be, and that climbing like that isn't very good for your muscles.

Of course you could always just climb routes at the gym of an easier grade then what you would climb outside if you were concerned about that.


The only reason I am going after a jug haul is because I just don't enjoy crimps that much these days. There was a point in time where all I wanted to climb was crimpy routes, and my fingers felt much stronger then compared to now.

What is a crimp to you? Just wondering...

How old are you, 80?

Climbing successive hard moves is bad for you? I have been doing it wrong this whole time. I need to climb easier routes in order to climb harder routes. Chris Sharma's body is sure to explode any minute then.