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Posted: Wed Dec 03, 2008 10:20 pm
by 512OW
Heres my take, only because I'm bored.
Stickclipping: perfectly fine for one bolt. Ok for two if for safety to the belayer reasons. Its sport climbing... why make it unsafe?
Long Draws: perfectly fine. They are the climbers answer to lazy developers who refuse to put bolts in the best spots, or the climbers answer to developers who lower the quality of a route by trying to force a clip in the crux. Its sport climbing... why make it unsafe?
Skipping a bolt: Not the same as stickclipping. The added mental factor might only make it MORE difficult. I for one, don't skip bolts unless I absolutely can't clip it. Its sport climbing... why make it unsafe?
Posted: Wed Dec 03, 2008 11:04 pm
by pigsteak
512OW wrote:Heres my take, only because I'm bored.
Stickclipping: perfectly fine for one bolt. Ok for two if for safety to the belayer reasons. Its sport climbing... why make it unsafe?
Long Draws: perfectly fine. They are the climbers answer to lazy developers who refuse to put bolts in the best spots, or the climbers answer to developers who lower the quality of a route by trying to force a clip in the crux. Its sport climbing... why make it unsafe?
Skipping a bolt: Not the same as stickclipping. The added mental factor might only make it MORE difficult. I for one, don't skip bolts unless I absolutely can't clip it. Its sport climbing... why make it unsafe?
too much dumbness in there to tackle with one post....
Posted: Wed Dec 03, 2008 11:14 pm
by ahab
SCIN wrote:Pigsteak is correct. I hate it when someone solos a route and talks about "sending" it. If you solo a route you aren't sending, You are cheating because you don't have to clip any of the bolts.
bam!
Posted: Wed Dec 03, 2008 11:18 pm
by 512OW
pigsteak wrote:512OW wrote:Heres my take, only because I'm bored.
Stickclipping: perfectly fine for one bolt. Ok for two if for safety to the belayer reasons. Its sport climbing... why make it unsafe?
Long Draws: perfectly fine. They are the climbers answer to lazy developers who refuse to put bolts in the best spots, or the climbers answer to developers who lower the quality of a route by trying to force a clip in the crux. Its sport climbing... why make it unsafe?
Skipping a bolt: Not the same as stickclipping. The added mental factor might only make it MORE difficult. I for one, don't skip bolts unless I absolutely can't clip it. Its sport climbing... why make it unsafe?
too much dumbness in there to tackle with one post....
Shit, you're right. Sport climbing is neither.
Re: Any Difference?
Posted: Wed Dec 03, 2008 11:19 pm
by DuppyC
Savage wrote:pigsteak wrote:
Honestly, I am all about the "clean" send but I just dont want to see a bunch of pretentious climbers running around trying to sully our good name!
That ship sailed off long ago...sorry about your timing.
Posted: Thu Dec 04, 2008 1:29 am
by mcrib
Toy I can't believe that is all you have to say on the subject
Posted: Thu Dec 04, 2008 3:24 pm
by Lateralus
As long as one presents their ascent honestly, who cares. An honest account of the climb validates the experience, right? It's all *egobation after that. Besides, as far as the lizards and Jesus are concerned if you don't free solo a rock climb naked, you are dumbing down the route by some type of modern trickery i.e cheating!
*
http://www.verbotomy.com/verbottle.php? ... tion_id=44
Posted: Thu Dec 04, 2008 4:25 pm
by rhunt
Every climber on this board and in this thread probably owns a crash pad right? Well then take that crash pad out sport climbing next time and leave the stick clip at home. There that take care of that debate. Skipping bolts because you can't stop to clip is what's going to take climbing to the next level...top roping blank 5.16 routes because there are not clipping holds! Again..top roping is the future..you'll see.
Posted: Thu Dec 04, 2008 5:02 pm
by quicksilver
Piggie,
I only know you through Josh and breifly met you at the crags on a couple of occasions. For my vote you get the prize for best and most provocative posts. People come out of the woodwork when you post.
Good (and funny) stuff. As for me I get to the top any way I can and I
don't have any rules. Just happy to keep on climbing in any manner possible. Rules are for the young studs and elite not us mere mortals.
So if you see me using a stiffy to clip from 6 feet away because I am pumped and scared have mercy on my soul.
Posted: Thu Dec 04, 2008 6:43 pm
by Rollo
pigsteak wrote:Rollo wrote:i can't believe i'm still reading this topic and posting on it..... winter sucks.
winter? we haven't missed a weekend yet of climbing....you live in Alaska?
Yeah, I see that you were climbing last weekend because you sprayed all your sends in cold temps.