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Weight is definitely an issue, I use a 10.5 and weigh 200lbs, and my ropes seem to wear really fast compared to lighter climbers. I think I would destroy a 9.4.

Jo go with the 10.2 especially if your going to be belaying heavier guys.

Josephine, you could get the 9.8 Bi and dry treat it yourself with Nikwax Rope Proof- It runs about $20 for a bottle...

ended up w/a 9.8 and it seems to be working a lot nicer than my old 10.3. now i'll just have to see how it holds up over the long haul! thanks for all the great advice everyone!

B.J. wrote:

JR wrote:Sure. Like having rope through the gri-gri to your leg then to your hand doesn't seem gimmicky.WTF Do you also anchor yourself to the ground with webbing tied to the back of your harness? How can you put a price tag on this shit? $30. $5. $100. Whatever.Priceless... I say.

Are you implying that I think the technique is gimmicky? Because I don't. I think the Freino itself is a gimmick.

I put a price tag on this because 1) I have a limited budget, and 2) I don't want to waste my money on stupid shit. If you know a reason why I should get a Freino instead, I'm all ears. Otherwise, I'll continue to redirect off my leg loop and save my money for something more worthwhile...like an Alpine Equalizer

I guess I am saying in my minds eye I thought it would look gimmicky. Shit if it works, go for it. I am sure the climber with butt floss(two slings girth hitched to belay loop and then strung conveniently between their legs and attached to rear gear loops) doesn't think they look silly. I don't think they have made slings smaller and smaller with intentions of people getting them farther and farther up their asses. All this shit is cool with me, as long as we can laugh at each other.

merrick wrote:try belaying someone hangdogging and projecting a route for an hour with an atc, then try with a grigri. there is no question which one i want to use.

I used to be an almost 100% fan of the grigri for sport at the Red - and for belaying someone really working a route, it's still totally necessary. But for normal runs on routes, I really like the newer style of BD ATC with the fins - for normal takes/falls, it isn't much different than a grigri, and for feeding rope, I pretty much never get things jammed up.