RRC Archives

i agree with climbboy, check out penitente canyon if you are out there. i swung through there a few years back and it looked pretty cool.

Out in Denver on an intern and have been going to Shelf Road most weekends. It's November now and still warm weather climbing during the day. Sharp limestone, mostly just vertical. Technical, some pockets (enough to make you wish for home). Places to check out The Bank, Cactus Cliff, the Gym. When you go to The Bank, climb #1 Super Guy, fun 11a with moves over a big roof. Might want to hand tighten the nut holding the hanger on under the roof before you go Chunky Monkey at Cactus Cliffs, drop me an email and I could give more info. Hope this post made it in time before your trip. Didn't pay attention to the original post date.
-Jennifer

I spent 4 years in Colo Spgs and climbed at Shelf alot. Yeah, it's mostly vertical, that's true. But there are more than 1,000 bolted routes there and more than a handful of gems. If you want to do harder stuff (for Shelf) the Gymnasium is the place to go. The Example is one of the best .13a's in CO, the Gym Arrete Direct, Headcheese and Ejector Seat are all really good, too. It gets sun in the morning and, in winter, is chilly in the afternoon. Cactus Cliff is South facing and gets full sun. There, Hot Bitch is really good as is Tits Up, right next to it. Lats Don't Have Feelings is a classic 11d. The French are Here is steepish at the beginning and very good. At the Bank, Heavy Weather and Surreal Estate are extremely high quality. The Gallery holds No Passion for Fashion and Lunch at the Y -- both real good.

Get used to standing on much smaller things than you do down in Slade. Your toes will probably hurt. When you reach a crux, the cure is usually thus: stick your foot up by your ear and pull like a sumbitch to reach the next pocket or edge. There is some bad rock, but get on the classics and that has all been taken care of. If you don't want to climb anything but tens, elevens and twelve-minuses...you could stay busy here for a very long time. It's a pretty fun drive back to civilization to stay on "Shelf Road" all the way into Cripple Creek. Put some quarters in a slot, drink a beer at a fake saloon and head back to the Springs. There is more new stuff going up all the time and it'll probably be worth checking out the Far Side, and things further down The Gymnasium's canyon.

how is the road in January? can an Escort make it up there?

yes, i think an escort could make it up there. send me your address so i can mail you a loaded gun that you will hopefully use to off yourself once you get there.