RRC Archives

Hey Pig,
If I remember correctly, Dave Scott did 13a when V3 or V4 was his limit. I will ask him about it and let you know though. Maybe my fantastical brain is conjuring spirits again. I do know that Dave has DEVELOPED a phenomenal amount of pure endurance though. Even by his own admission, he used to have zero power.

Wes,
if you are bouldering V5, according to your theory, you should still be able to do Chainsaw or Ale 8 first go. They are 12a, 12b. Did you flash/onsight Chainsaw? You mentioned 8 Ball though, and that is what I would consider a "bouldery" line, not an "enduro route". Just like doing laps on BMT won't get you up 8Ball, bouldering V10 won't get you up Tuna Town. Point is, you have to train for the style of climbing you are going to attempt, unless you are a mutant of course. As for Table, we unfortunately have to disqualify that route from this discussion due to the fact that you have been on it multiple times and one of the parameters of the experiment/discussion is you can have beta, but you can't have multiple burns on the route. This is because as soon as you get on the route for the second time, you are training your endurance. There is more than one truth behind Pigsteak's signature.

Mj

P.S. - and whoever said "you can't build too steep of a wall", you are a man after my own heart. I say, the steeper the better....but that's just what I prefer.

Yes, it takes endurance to do some of the routes in the red. I am with you on that. But, as for what kind of training I will do, and what I think works best, then it is power / power endurance. Just out there climbing routes at your limit will give you whatever endurance you need pretty quick. And then you can still do the bouldery routes. To me, training power (via bouldering) helps build endurance, but training endurance (via laps on easy routes/treadwall/traversing/etc) doesn't really help build power.

Dave Graham did Slashface 2nd go. That's sick. Sorry....off topic.

Wes,
you are correct. Training PE will give you some measure of endurance, but not the same level as if you targeted local endurance specifically. You are also correct that getting on your project will train your local endurance just by default, but I have found that your project goes much more quickly if you build your local endurance too. Question: What is the thing holding you back from sending Table right now? My guess is that it isn't power.

SCIN, I dd Slashface the other day too, but then the chick called the cops on me.

Mj

sumdog wrote:thanks for the info. everyone, except i perfer bourbon over tequila. how much do you think the supplys will cost, not including the holds? TradMike, maybe you can lend me a hand since i live close to the 'nati. do you climb at eden park much? if anybody would like to lend a hand, i'll send a donation of $200 to help with the murray-pendergrass preserve in their name. thanks again to everybody for their input!!!!!!! nick

I'll get behind my wall tonight to get some photos so you can see the construction and I'll email them. It's a little tricky to get the corners perfect where two different angled walls meet. A small vertical wall at the bottom of the 45deg wall is nice so you are not so cramped for space on the sit starts. My wall is free standing and does not rely on the floor joists for the roof (It's bearing on a steel I-beam and itself). The steep angle wall will give you power like mad. I'll have to measure mine but I think it's around 50deg. I spent around $450 for all the lumber, T-Nuts, screws and brackets. The holds are expensive. I started out with a bunch of holds I made out of 2x4s and slowly added a few holds at a time. The more holds you have the more enjoyable.

Oh yeah, sorry to hijack the thread sumdog. If you need another thread hijacked though, just ask.

Mj

no prob. sikmonkey! if you didn't, i'm sure somebody else would have. hey tradmike, any photos and/or advice would be great! nick