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Up Yonder (11b) first pitch is not too tough and it is super overhung--clean falls. Plus, it is short--so you could get the redpoint without tons of endurance. It is at Roadside.

kek-san, what is a "progressive 10"?

pigsteak - Whne I said progressive 10's I meant that at the Great Wall area there are several routes that start at 5.10 (Legonds of Limonite direct) to 5.10d (Touch of Grey) and all grades inbetween. Hence progessive.
The idea was that perhaps if 11 won't go 10d might. If not maybe 10c, 10b, 10a, or 10. And when one gets tired 9, 8, 7 and 6 are also available on the same wall wth the same type of rock.
There are no 11a's but Momma Cindy is pretty close at 11b. If you are feeling particulatily low gravity there are two 12's (projects still?) that could be worked as Red Points.

Although it was my first 11.a redpoint, I think maypop is hard as balls for 11.a, I'd suggest Critters on the Cliff at Muir Valley, way easy, or Armadillo at the Zoo, but then again I love slab.

thanks man for the clarification.

Return to balance at Slab City in Muir Valley. See the new Fomv newsletter for information on finding it. A really fun route!

"Return to Balance" has a fun big move in the middle and a nice delicate balancy section up higher. Definitely not typical Red River routes. They remind me more of something out of New River. They will be online once a little bit more trailwork is completed. There is also plenty of potential for some long hard slab routes if anybody is interested.

Oh yeah, Hoss is right about "Critters on the Cliff"... (way easy): it's a one move wonder (if you are short) and the rest of the route is probably only 5.9.

Okay, so if you find a nice project 11-something, train like mad, and it goes what's next? Not to hyjack, but where do you look next for 11-moderate and 11-hard? Say you are looking to hit 12's by next year where do you go to build your baseline on 11's?

Try using the search feature on Ray's database and type in whatever grade you are looking to climb. You can then refine the search to find plenty of other options.

Project a 12a like bare metal teen and next thing you know you will be in shape.