RRC Archives

You know what I was thinking is that if we're gonna do this, we should do it right. I'm all for a bolt every 2 feet-- yeah, some people are gonna argue that this takes away from the "flow" of the route, but think about it-- you'd always be on toprope! Never in any danger of a "lead-fall" or having to do something psycho like "running it out." And you don't have to clip any of the bolts that you don't feel you need! It's like a choose-your-own-adventure book!

Remember, we're here to work for you, and to keep you happy, so this is our little way of saying "Thanks!" to everyone, and giving routes that "one size fits all" feel.

I agree totally, Yasmeen. And that way it'll be more like each individual's *own* route. You can clip every bolt OR clip only those you choose thus adding more risk. Spray rights can be based on how many bolts you did the route in.

Great ideas you guys!

How about FoxFire? I think that if anything, the easiest "R" routes should be bolted first. Plus it’s not fair for people who can’t place gear to not be able to do multipitch.

loren wrote:We will bolt that one on Sunday after the crowds are gone.

Loren

I think this sort of project should attempted on the most crowded days on the most popular climbs...wouldn’t that make more sense?

Keep these good ideas coming y'all! I really like it. Fox Fire is now on the list. I really do agree. Anything with an R will get in to the first round of bolting for sure.

Yas and Artsay, those are really good ideas. A bolt every 2 feet seems to me to be a really good idea. I don't know about skipping clips though. If you guys are going to talk like that, I think that you really need to put some sort of disclamer so that impressionable people know that you are kidding.

Well, I'm getting really excited people. These are exciting times that we are climbing in here. I think that I'm going to be proud to tell my kids that I helped spearhead the crackbolting campaign of 04!

Someone should bolt that steep path from miguels campground up to the parking lot before some newby breaks a leg or something.That would be my first priority.
Im sure with some funding we can all pull together as a climbing community and get er done!

Not to mention the stairs at Torrent. If I could clip in, I wouldn't have such a hard time with my walker. Help me here, Yas! Loren?

SAFETY and COMFORT first people... so when you are out there bolting Fortress, please install a class III safety net. For the comfort of others, please be sure to install a few armchairs too.
I'll donate what I can (later).

A BBQ at the second pitch of Bedtime (for Bonzo) would be stealth.

I think the bbq thing has been done for real.

Cool... but has anyone thought of placing a bed at Bedtime?

This is amusing and all, but I don't think anyone has answered the guy's original question; will Eureka be rebolted?

I can't think of a better "first lead" sport climb. I also don't understand why a person can't simply lead Eureka on gear if he/she chooses and leave the f*#king bolts on the face. The majority of the routes in the red are caked with chalk, so please, nobody use the "aesthetics of the rock" bullsh^t line.

I am looking forward to placing gear when finances permit me to start building a rack, so I'm not just bitching as a current sport climber. Chopping the bolts off Eureka was just a d^ckhead move (and anyone who knows me also knows I'd willingly say the same face to face) and I, for one, would like to see that route reopened to sport climbers, too.

(disclaimer: I haven't been to GV since last year, so if the bolts have been replaced, then I apologize ).