RRC Archives

One-Fall wrote:

Andrew wrote:
I can't tell you how many times I have said this to people. I am way to tall to be grading things. The problem with being tall is that some stuff is way harder for me and some stuff is way easier. So getting the grade accurate is hard.

But I bet your grades are spot on for people of your specific physical profile.

Doubt it... I tend to climb in a small box and often share similar beta to on of my very short climbing partners

One-Fall wrote:

Andrew wrote:
I can't tell you how many times I have said this to people. I am way to tall to be grading things. The problem with being tall is that some stuff is way harder for me and some stuff is way easier. So getting the grade accurate is hard.

But I bet your grades are spot on for people of your specific physical profile.

My guess is that his route grades are spot on for anyone that isn't looking to stroke their ego. The problem here is people look to grades to confirm how strong they are and not how truly weak we are. I have climbed v11 and still fall routinely on v2, is the grade wrong or is my technique?

looks like the weather could be good for the reunion. could raise some money by taking bets/pledges from climbers who want to think they can flash 11.whatever and something like credit default swaps from the crowd/developers who think otherwise.

Andrew wrote:
As far as "here comes palin" is concerned the FA was done by trending left at the "crux". The route flows very well that way and is not outside the realm of off route and a few repeaters of the roue agreed that this was the logical approach to the climb. It also keeps the route more consistent. We can start upgrading everything if people want to take the hard way up routes. I surely can make Mr. Bungle 5.13 with the right beta.

I ask this question out of curiosity and not argument just because I'm not sure what you are calling the crux. On that climb you get through the vert section and get a rest (that last move on the vert section could be a crux for shorties, but it isn't too hard for me). Is the next section leading to the big crimp clip the crux? Or is the section after that with the opposing sloper moves what you thought was the crux? For me the sloper section will be the redpoint crux because it follows the prior "tough" section. My brain can't imagine how going left of the slopers could lead to the bolt since there is a jug right of it, but I'd like to check out whatever direction you are talking about next time.

Again, I love that route, and I can't wait to climb it again. I actually went back for it Saturday but it was wet leading me to get my ass-kicking on Bromance. Maybe they will feel different when I piece it all properly together from the ground, but if it doesn't, who cares. Then I'll gladly be the pansy up-grader.

I think it would be great if Ray would write code to pop up a form on when we log grade opinions. It should ask info such as height, skin folds, VO2, diameter of digits, max/min HR, how often you train, what specific grip you train, and if you donuts. That way, we could do a statistical analysis of grades so if you find the category that most relates to you, you know if the route will be 11d or 12a.

Brentucky wrote:

Andrew wrote:
As far as "here comes palin" is concerned the FA was done by trending left at the "crux". The route flows very well that way and is not outside the realm of off route and a few repeaters of the roue agreed that this was the logical approach to the climb. It also keeps the route more consistent. We can start upgrading everything if people want to take the hard way up routes. I surely can make Mr. Bungle 5.13 with the right beta.

I ask this question out of curiosity and not argument just because I'm not sure what you are calling the crux. On that climb you get through the vert section and get a rest (that last move on the vert section could be a crux for shorties, but it isn't too hard for me). Is the next section leading to the big crimp clip the crux? Or is the section after that with the opposing sloper moves what you thought was the crux? For me the sloper section will be the redpoint crux because it follows the prior "tough" section. My brain can't imagine how going left of the slopers could lead to the bolt since there is a jug right of it, but I'd like to check out whatever direction you are talking about next time.

Again, I love that route, and I can't wait to climb it again. I actually went back for it Saturday but it was wet leading me to get my ass-kicking on Bromance. Maybe they will feel different when I piece it all properly together from the ground, but if it doesn't, who cares. Then I'll gladly be the pansy up-grader.

after the thin vert climbing in the first half and get to a jug you head left and then traverse back right on jugs before the final undercling left hand sloper dish finish. Felt 11c for all parties this way. the top is not hard but has a very specific sequence to not make it feel not impossible, but is probably V2.

[quote="kafish2 My guess is that his route grades are spot on for anyone that isn't looking to stroke their ego. The problem here is people look to grades to confirm how strong they are and not how truly weak we are. I have climbed v11 and still fall routinely on v2, is the grade wrong or is my technique?[/quote]

and this kids, is called subtle spray. but you aren't trying to stroke your ego or anything.

Zinger!

Cool, thanks andrew. My first hold i grabbed was definitely up right from the vert, and that led me to the next bolt where i headed up right again. Then i guess i hit a left hand pocket undercling to a right hand sidepull sloper dish to another left crimp gastone. It felt super sequency and cool as hell, and apparently I did everything different than what you said. Oh well, i guess i'm dumb, but at least i'm not as dumb as kafish2 who has sent V11 and "routinely" falls on V2. Seriously dude, you've got problems if that's not like a flying Andrew V2 or something like the 8th problem in your training circuit. WTF!!!