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Posted: Sun Apr 11, 2010 11:28 pm
by MADMIKE
Yo fellas...

I did put anchors on the trad route to the left of Wobbler and I am gonna call it:

The Wondrous Boat Ride 5.10c, sticking with the Chocolate Factory theme!

As for the Seam Project, I was thinking Peligroso or Glumptious Globgobbler 5.12aR...

Thanks Pigsteak for the offer, but I am gonna work this thing and end on the chains installed :D if others wanna keep on going to the top...there is a great tree to rap off of!!

Posted: Mon Apr 12, 2010 12:30 am
by Clevis Hitch
I thought you could only name something if it got sent.. pink points don't count.. TR's don't count. Aid climbing only counts until someone free's it. Only, free on the sharp end counts.

Put sixteen hours in cleaning something up. Go for a sixer and find gypsys camped in your tent eating your vienna sausage!

Posted: Mon Apr 12, 2010 1:32 am
by MADMIKE
Very true my man, but I figured mine as well name it until someone sends it. It would not look very good nameless in the guide. Just trying to keep it creative. I am not saying I am the FA, I am not saying I sent it. I don't count pink points or any of that other stuff ya named as an FA. Hell, when someone does send, they can change the name to anything they please.

Posted: Mon Apr 12, 2010 2:07 am
by dustonian
I still like 'roll out the gurneys'! I am psyched to work this thing too...hopefully without getting maimed in the process! Wanna git out there this week Mike?

'Taffy Puller'...I dig it man! That route looks killer :)

Posted: Mon Apr 12, 2010 2:12 am
by dustonian
BTW big props to Mike & Ron for putting an anchor on this and getting it cleaned up...you should see the shitty 5.9 offwidth they did to get up there!

Posted: Mon Apr 12, 2010 2:20 am
by rjackson
dustonian wrote:...you should see the shitty 5.9 offwidth they did to get up there!
Beauty is in the eye of the beholder...

Posted: Tue Apr 13, 2010 12:08 am
by Clevis Hitch
Well since we can just name stuff just for the hell of it. I think I'll call it. Trigliceride ride. I mean why not?

I've called stuff names before without sending. Mostly between me and some close friends. I've never made a public statement about it though. Makes it kinda hard to rename it if you send it cause you'll seem like a loute. Just bustin on ya! Honestly I don't care....

Posted: Tue Apr 13, 2010 1:13 am
by ynp1
Pink Sock... has that shit been sent yet???

also i think Nazi Bitch Crack, and Armageddon got rechanged after they went free. NBC got changed to a super gay name, but armageddon may have gotten an upgrade.

Posted: Tue Apr 13, 2010 2:48 am
by Clevis Hitch
nobody climbs that shit! Purest form of choss known to mankind! :mrgreen:

Re: "Seam" route at Chocolate Factory

Posted: Sun May 13, 2012 3:20 am
by Wolf
I led this route this week. It was pretty cool. There is enough gear that's good enough that I felt it was safe enough to lead, although it's still heady. Since I'm nowhere near as strong as Sands, I set up a TR first and fiddled with gear first. There was a spot, probably where he blew the microcam, that took two ballnuts pretty well. From the same hold I also placed two small brassies higher up. After the next bouldery section there was a really weird cam placement (blue totem cam with wider lobes to the left) that held up to bounce testing but certainly wasn't textbook. After the traverse onto the face there's a bomber red tricam placement that's hard to fiddle in with the pump, and another ballnut placement. While the placements passed a bounce test, I still put screamers on quite a few.

I'd agree it's on the 11d/12a line, but I think the pump you get placing the gear pushes it to 12a. Definitely R, given the nature of the gear and the ramp. Cool boulder problems.