I did put anchors on the trad route to the left of Wobbler and I am gonna call it:
The Wondrous Boat Ride 5.10c, sticking with the Chocolate Factory theme!
As for the Seam Project, I was thinking Peligroso or Glumptious Globgobbler 5.12aR...
Thanks Pigsteak for the offer, but I am gonna work this thing and end on the chains installed if others wanna keep on going to the top...there is a great tree to rap off of!!
Last edited by MADMIKE on Mon Apr 12, 2010 3:41 am, edited 4 times in total.
I thought you could only name something if it got sent.. pink points don't count.. TR's don't count. Aid climbing only counts until someone free's it. Only, free on the sharp end counts.
Put sixteen hours in cleaning something up. Go for a sixer and find gypsys camped in your tent eating your vienna sausage!
If you give a man a match, he'll be warm for a minute. If you set him on fire, he'll be warm for the rest of his life!
Very true my man, but I figured mine as well name it until someone sends it. It would not look very good nameless in the guide. Just trying to keep it creative. I am not saying I am the FA, I am not saying I sent it. I don't count pink points or any of that other stuff ya named as an FA. Hell, when someone does send, they can change the name to anything they please.
Last edited by MADMIKE on Mon Apr 12, 2010 3:33 am, edited 1 time in total.
I still like 'roll out the gurneys'! I am psyched to work this thing too...hopefully without getting maimed in the process! Wanna git out there this week Mike?
'Taffy Puller'...I dig it man! That route looks killer
Well since we can just name stuff just for the hell of it. I think I'll call it. Trigliceride ride. I mean why not?
I've called stuff names before without sending. Mostly between me and some close friends. I've never made a public statement about it though. Makes it kinda hard to rename it if you send it cause you'll seem like a loute. Just bustin on ya! Honestly I don't care....
If you give a man a match, he'll be warm for a minute. If you set him on fire, he'll be warm for the rest of his life!
also i think Nazi Bitch Crack, and Armageddon got rechanged after they went free. NBC got changed to a super gay name, but armageddon may have gotten an upgrade.
I led this route this week. It was pretty cool. There is enough gear that's good enough that I felt it was safe enough to lead, although it's still heady. Since I'm nowhere near as strong as Sands, I set up a TR first and fiddled with gear first. There was a spot, probably where he blew the microcam, that took two ballnuts pretty well. From the same hold I also placed two small brassies higher up. After the next bouldery section there was a really weird cam placement (blue totem cam with wider lobes to the left) that held up to bounce testing but certainly wasn't textbook. After the traverse onto the face there's a bomber red tricam placement that's hard to fiddle in with the pump, and another ballnut placement. While the placements passed a bounce test, I still put screamers on quite a few.
I'd agree it's on the 11d/12a line, but I think the pump you get placing the gear pushes it to 12a. Definitely R, given the nature of the gear and the ramp. Cool boulder problems.
if others wanna keep on going to the top...there is a great tree to rap off of!!
