RRC Archives

caribe wrote:

Redpoint wrote:Well that's news to me, when I walked past there I saw plenty of jugs at the starts.

You can search the online guide by grade . . . I am just saying . . .

I did an advanced search for overhung jug hauls between 5.11A - 5.12A and I got the result of:

Routes 1 - 0 (of 0 routes found)

So I figured you all would be a lot more help.

Hey, Troll. I mean Redpoint. This is a lofty goal jumping from 10's to 12a. I really hope we can turn this experience for you into a learning tool for the rest of us. Can you keep us posted on every trip to your project? I would love to read what is going through your mind(even if it is made up) as you work your way to a send.

Maybe we can turn this into a poll.

Will the Troll known as Redpoint send a 12a in

A: 1-10 tries
B: 11-20 tries
C: 21 or <
D: Never

The poll would only last a year.

Redpoint wrote:

camhead wrote:If you have a longish stick clip, you can pre-hang the hard third draw on Ro.

Honestly, if you want a good full-value jughaul project, get on Return of Chris Snyder. Not as hard as Twinkie, and will give you WAY more bang for your buck than Ro.

You know I have only heard great things about Return of Chris Snyder, and now that I know it's a jug haul(and it looks plenty overhung in the pic) this sounds like the direction I'm going to go, thanks a million. I'll let you know how it goes.

A while back I wanted to project Fuzzy Undercling, but I hate the approach at Military, and the crappy old bolts. I just hope they are at least 3/8inch by 3 1/2inches over there.

Well I am satisfied with this threads results, thanks again for your help everyone.

That comment has confirmed my troll suspicions. Disregard my last advice, and instead STFU N00B!

JR wrote:Hey, Troll. I mean Redpoint. This is a lofty goal jumping from 10's to 12a. I really hope we can turn this experience for you into a learning tool for the rest of us. Can you keep us posted on every trip to your project? I would love to read what is going through your mind(even if it is made up) as you work your way to a send.

Maybe we can turn this into a poll.

Will the Troll known as Redpoint send a 12a in

A: 1-10 tries
B: 11-20 tries
C: 21 or <
D: Never

The poll would only last a year.

i agree.. i would like to hear some updates as you start working on these!



overhung juggy 11? try monkey in the middle at the zoo for an epic send

i'd recommend twinkie over ro shampoo any day.. ro shampo only gets the traffic it does because people are looking for an easy tick, and it's at roadside, imo. pretty sub par route, i think... its next door neighbor tic tac is way better.

go for twinkie. you will be way more satisfied with yourself when you get to the top. cooler crag, too.

JR wrote:Hey, Troll. I mean Redpoint. This is a lofty goal jumping from 10's to 12a. I really hope we can turn this experience for you into a learning tool for the rest of us. Can you keep us posted on every trip to your project? I would love to read what is going through your mind(even if it is made up) as you work your way to a send.

Maybe we can turn this into a poll.

Will the Troll known as Redpoint send a 12a in

A: 1-10 tries
B: 11-20 tries
C: 21 or <
D: Never

The poll would only last a year.

Just because I climb easy stuff at the Red (because that's all my partners can ever climb), doesn't mean 5.10 is my max limit, I am well beyond 5.10. I have lead the 5.11 in the cave at my gym plenty of times, and eventually it becomes a flat roof. The only thing I don't like about the route is clipping the forth bolt sucks, who ever set the route decided to make the crux clipping a bolt. I find this ridiculous, considering you are setting a route, you get to choose the handholds for god sakes, why not make the crux an actual move to another hold instead of clipping a bolt?

I was also able to climb the 5.12 at my gym, but I didn't enjoy the extremely balancey crimpy crux, most people ended up skipping a hold and doing it some crazy way, but you still had to use this crimp to do it. I am going to go back to the gym to project that route next month, hopefully it will get me ready for The Return of Chris Snyder.

You need to add and "E" to the poll...

E-will get injured in the process

Everybody knows you can't get hurt on overhung routes -- just kidding.

camhead wrote: That comment has confirmed my troll suspicions. Disregard my last advice, and instead STFU N00B!

no way this guy is a troll, his post are too sincere. I think he is just enjoying our enjoyment of his neurosis.

Redpoint wrote:

caribe wrote:

Redpoint wrote:Well that's news to me, when I walked past there I saw plenty of jugs at the starts.

You can search the online guide by grade . . . I am just saying . . .

I did an advanced search for overhung jug hauls between 5.11A - 5.12A and I got the result of:

Routes 1 - 0 (of 0 routes found)

So I figured you all would be a lot more help.

Try the search again but specify "Jugs" instead of "overhung jug hauls"

You are right...overhung routes can NEVER break ankles or hands....