JR wrote:Hey, Troll. I mean Redpoint. This is a lofty goal jumping from 10's to 12a. I really hope we can turn this experience for you into a learning tool for the rest of us. Can you keep us posted on every trip to your project? I would love to read what is going through your mind(even if it is made up) as you work your way to a send.
Maybe we can turn this into a poll.
Will the Troll known as Redpoint send a 12a in
A: 1-10 tries
B: 11-20 tries
C: 21 or <
D: Never
The poll would only last a year.
Just because I climb easy stuff at the Red (because that's all my partners can ever climb), doesn't mean 5.10 is my max limit, I am well beyond 5.10. I have lead the 5.11 in the cave at my gym plenty of times, and eventually it becomes a flat roof. The only thing I don't like about the route is clipping the forth bolt sucks, who ever set the route decided to make the crux clipping a bolt. I find this ridiculous, considering you are setting a route, you get to choose the handholds for god sakes, why not make the crux an actual move to another hold instead of clipping a bolt?
I was also able to climb the 5.12 at my gym, but I didn't enjoy the extremely balancey crimpy crux, most people ended up skipping a hold and doing it some crazy way, but you still had to use this crimp to do it. I am going to go back to the gym to project that route next month, hopefully it will get me ready for The Return of Chris Snyder.
"It is difficult to estimate the potential damage of solvents; therefore the middle of the rope should never be marked with a felt-tip pen or similar. Although a danger might be improbable, it should never be ignored." Mammut
