RRC Archives

what is standard fair..bolting cracks or mixed routes?

you know why people don't climb mixed routes here? because 90% of the folks don't own trad gear, or they come to clip bolts. trad is too time consuming for many....mixed climbing is one oxymoron that is in need of a pigsteak corollary...

piggy, not every climber has the right to climb every route... mixed routes are cool and should not be sanitized for the chuffers.

im a chuffer and i b olted a crack at purgatory HAHAHAHAHAHAHA

you did not! Did you?

I don't like mixed routes all that much. Unless it is just adding a bolt or two (maybe three if it is really long) to what would otherwise be an r or x rated trad route, . Placing and falling on gear isn't rocket science or some kinda voodoo. If it is going to be at least 50% bolted, then just go ahead and add the rest of the bolts. That is just what I think, and I have climbed some amazing mixed lines that are great as they are. Over all, and at the red, just add some bolts. Not like it is adventure climbing or anything like that, and probably at least half of the accepted "sport" lines would go as r rated or better gear routes.

i know, BITCH ! you know good and well fat mans misery was going to be an ultra classic. you couldnt stand someone else stealing your purgatory thunder. youl get whats coming soon.

Oh shit I forgot aboubt that route. I was talking about "the castle has fallen"

you bolted a 5.4 crack?? Kenny, I'm gonna have to hurt you if that is true

allah has bolted two cracks now...sandy, are you listening?

i'm with wes on this one....many of the face climbs could go as sporty trad lines if the right person sent them...it is a matter if a sport wienie like myself or some hard core trad babe gets to it first....

no no no my bolts cros over the start of that route thats all, i forgot that it was a route when i bolted it mainly cause i had that line in my head for a long time and when i got a drill to use i put it in not thinking.