RRC Archives

No, I'm not trying to bring you down. It is in fact a challenging move, but V1 is being polite in grading that move. Put that on a short route with a lot of 5.10 climbing and even without the lay-down, it doesn't equate to 5.12.

But if that's how we should grade things, Buff the Wood is 5.13. Try being too short and too tall (as well as weak). But something finally worked.

Meadows wrote: but V1 is being polite in grading that move

i have to agree with that, if that move was the crux of a boulder problem i seriously doubt it would be rated over V1. However, and once again I have only been on the route once and maybe I missed something (no opposition to laying down), but I thought that there were several less than awesome holds on this route that i would call harder than 5.10 moves (I have climbed a lot of 5.10's!). I thought it was going to be a total jug haul from below (yes I am aware that jug can be a subjective and relative term). That combined with the steepness seems to make this thing clock in at 11d. What do I know, I am weak.

Clif just make an all out aye yi yay throw for the jug, best beta i can suggest for a shorter person. I have to admit I am tall and it felt like a stretch for me, but short people seem to be better at spotting those high feet.

If we're talking the hold just over the roof, throw a left leg out, find a good toe, do a sharp downturn of the knee (all the while you're right hand is gastoning that jug).

ah yes, the hokey pokey maneuver. i shook it all about before i pulled out, not the same.

bcombs wrote: ...wait...what? Are people from NC adverse to laying down? I think I for real fell asleep on this route.

Well firstly, their huge testicles rarely fit into conventional no hands rests. Also, its hard to spray about your latest heady trad send when you are all cramped up in a no hands.

yes it's pretty much over after the roof. there is some kind of good rest once you're all on the headwall (I think there's a horizontal that I could put my leg in), and then it's just some ok holds for the finish clip. it's been a while since I was on it but I remember thinking the anchor clip was a little tough - no crux there but still had to pay attention.

rest good and punch over that lip with all you got, then regroup and shake out before you go for the end.

for me, the hardest move on this thing was clipping the anchors. the last bolt is really close to them, which makes it 5.11d hard to get some slack up to clip.

skipping the last bolt makes this 5.11c.

clif wrote:please explain. did you use those shallow 1/4" deep pockets in the roof, no hands dyno or were you able to lay back horizontally with way high feet off of the verticle left facing flake, or did you use the semi-matching big flat edges- cause that's a long way...

thanks. [/b]

haha... 1/4"??? This makes me chuckle... If you want 1/4" holds, get on Golden Touch, that's more like 1/4"...

clif wrote:hey, i wasn't looking to stir up the grade debate as just visualize how shorter people make the move.

cross over. then, don't let go while climbing upwards.

Cheetah or Hippocrite - which is title holder of the short 12a must do?