RRC Archives

i haven't been on breakfast burrito so maybe this is wrong, i heard that going to The Hold was a dynamic move...a dyno to be more specific.

is that wrong?

Yes.

Hmm... I don't remember any dynos or really big moves, but I suppose somebody could. My advice to climbers on loose or suspect rock would be to keep the weight on your feet as much as possible and pull down on the holds (not out) or just reach past or climb around the questionable sections...

Sunshine wrote:The hold had to be giggled like a key to get it to move. After a certain number of climbers passing by and giggling it then it would move on the next climber.

Burrito is such a cool climb, it shut me down so many times when I first tried to lead it. If nothing else I the missing jug will make it an even more heady lead.

I'm leaving work right now, can anyone meet me at Burrito in an hour and a half to give me catch?

I got on it the first time last fall and didn't feel it flex, and I did a dyno to it. However, I definitely felt it the next time.

I've never been on BB, but I've been on some routes that sounds like has similar features. I've noticed that a day or two after a rain that our sandstone around here gets softer or more flexy. During long dry spells certain features seem more solid. Could this have been the case on BB? I know some routes I avoid when its damp because of this.

If memory serves me when you come around the arette didn't you step on the thing. I figured that is how it would break as it was definetely a weak hold. Sounds like the loss of this hold didn't affect the quality of the line any which is good as it is a gret climb. Glad no one was hurt, falling rock is very Very dangerous, especially on crowded weeekends with all the people at the base of the cliff... lots of targets.

J-Rock wrote:My advice to climbers on loose or suspect rock would be to keep the weight on your feet as much as possible and pull down on the holds (not out) or just reach past or climb around the questionable sections...

J-Rock, while the idea is good in principle keeping weight on the feet is not always the best idea on chossy rock. i broke my knee when a foot foot chip ble on me. probably not a big deal on most cleaned routes in the red though

Power2U wrote:Glad no one was hurt, falling rock is very Very dangerous, especially on crowded weeekends with all the people at the base of the cliff... lots of targets.

i'm just glad that, though i had been sitting down right in middle of the fall zone, i was looking up and reacted quickly enough to cover my head and run!