the burrito??

Post by **kafish2** » Wed Jun 01, 2005 1:46 am

so are the rumors true. is the burrito jug broken?

Post by **Spragwa** » Wed Jun 01, 2005 1:52 am

Neuroshock posted it in the online guide. Sounds true. That guy is straight up.

Post by **diggum** » Wed Jun 01, 2005 1:53 am

Yeah he said it nearly came down on his head. Don't think he would kid about that.

Post by **Stewy911** » Wed Jun 01, 2005 2:25 am

HOLY SHIT this can't be true! now its gonna be harder than balls!

Post by **pawilkes** » Wed Jun 01, 2005 2:29 am

sunshine just said something to me yesterday about loose holds that have been that way forever and haven't fallen and specifically mentioned that hold...how ironic.

Post by **young'n climber** » Wed Jun 01, 2005 2:43 am

Stewy is harder than balls already.

Post by **Spragwa** » Wed Jun 01, 2005 2:51 am

I wonder what's beneath? I can't wait to find out! Neuroshock said that he didn't think the new hold made it harder than 10d.

Post by **neuroshock** » Wed Jun 01, 2005 3:39 am

Spragwa wrote:I wonder what's beneath? I can't wait to find out! Neuroshock said that he didn't think the new hold made it harder than 10d.

i can't compare the pre- and post- versions of Breakfast Burrito as i hadn't climbed it before the breakage. it was the 2nd route i climbed at Drive-By, Fire & Brimstone being the 1st. however, i don't think Burrito w/o the jug felt any significance harder than Brimstone.

the fallen pieces, reassembled like a puzzle, was about 14"x5"x2" in size

the break left a pretty clean scar, i don't think it left a new "good" hold behind. my beta here: from the alcove, gaston the lower chalked up hold w/ left hand, cross into upper one with right. roll out of alcove move left to a good unchalked hold on the arete at the same height as the crimp on the face. high smear and move right hand to another good hold on the arete a couple feet higher. step up and grab juggy flake with left hand. clip.

Post by **Artsay** » Wed Jun 01, 2005 3:58 am

That hold didn't always flex. I think maybe about five years it started. That's a pretty long time it lasted seeing as how popular it is.

Post by **Tunica Intima** » Wed Jun 01, 2005 4:07 am

Yes the rumors are true, neuroshock is right. I was belaying the "hold breaker" when it happend. I just thought he fell off the Jug. I was gonna laugh at him for falling off such a big hold. I then realized he had just ripped about 20lbs of rock off the wall. It was amazing no person or animals were injured. There were 5-6 people in the immediate fall zone, "hold breakers" dog, my two dogs as well as my girlfriends dog sitting at the base, and no one was hit. Its crazy because I had just climbed it right before and thought wow the jug sounds hollow as hell.The route is not that much different overall, however if 10d is around your limit it may make coming around the arete a little more heady. One may want to wait to clip out on the face jugs instead of trying to give it the old reach around. Its a clean fall though "hold breaker" took about a 20-25 footer. He had a little rope out and hadn't made the clip when the hold broke. It will just be interesting for people who dont know about it and are expecting the jug to be there.