Page 3 of 7

Posted: Tue May 17, 2005 12:00 am
by J-Rock
Yeah, I thought it was odd that he didn't strike at me. I've discovered that the copperheads are very docile and so are the garter snakes, but the rat snakes are usually aggressive. Last year one struck at me when I was removing a loose block from "The Offering".

Posted: Tue May 17, 2005 12:02 am
by KD
SCIN wrote:
KD wrote: met and talked with tom sowder - very cool guy. :)
Tom Souders - Original Beene Brother. Notable FAs: Pink Feat, B3, The Quest, Basecamp, Unsportsmanlike Conduct, What's Left of the Beeneling, Inhibitor(!!), Windy Corner and plenty more.
he told me he had heard somebody had climbed souders crack - i didn't know but i though i saw something about it n here. he also said he might come to derbyfest (rap rawkus) dude flew up syncrnicity like it was a ladder - very cool to watch him climb. totally genuine and mellow dude too. told me pulling pockets was on of his too - i was on it next to him.

Posted: Tue May 17, 2005 12:15 am
by krazykid
Went to a wedding on Saturday, which was alot of fun. Then had fun at Torrent and the Zoo on Sunday. Then went to Roadside today. All three places were relativly crowd free. Today was really empty. I forgot how nice it is to climb durring the week. Not that I don't enjoy climbing with people, its just nice to climb whatever whenever...

Posted: Tue May 17, 2005 2:01 am
by Roentgen Ray
Artsay, I agree, Livin' in the UK is supersweet. Did you, by chance, try the route to the right called Mad Porter's Disease? Pretty tough 11c, methinks? As for Saturday, 10 hours on a plane from Florence, IT. Well worth the pain. If you liked Livin in the UK, I'ld suggest Out for Justice at Global (The Pink Lady Slippers are in bloom, orchids are amazing beasts). It's another one of those rarely climbed routes with little to no chalk. It's amazing how difficult 5.11 is with no beta, no chalk on the holds, and lots of pesky little crimps ya cannot see. Super exciting. I love climbing.

New routes

Posted: Tue May 17, 2005 2:19 am
by Spoonman
J.J.'s new route is AWESOME. Instant classic, even still a bit dirty at bottom. The best (or second best-Legend) sloper route in the RED. Of course, this type of "Lip Service" is always a blast!

Andrew did the move on "Cherry Red", and has linked the rest. First thought to be about 13c, is probably 5.14a, maybe 5.13d. Anyway-great work!

I did a FA in the solarium. We thought it was 5.13a at first, maybe harder with the shallow mono pull. Andrew had it in the bag Saturday, yet fell at the roof. It made me look for new beta, which I found, and which I think may lower the grade. I crusied it Sunday only to fall off a few feet from the anchors after grabbing the wrong hold-which broke.

I then got hit in the eye cleaning vines and brush and it ripped my contact in half. I belayed one eye and then ran up that damn hill again and back. After a long rest, I finally sent it. No name yet, but super route!

Super weekend!

Posted: Tue May 17, 2005 4:04 pm
by Yasmeen
I had a nice long weekend out West. Jonathan already took care of the pics and trip report, but failed to mention in there that he sent a 5.13a, La Hobita, after many weekends of working it out. Nice work, man! That approach alone would have been enough to make me give up, but he was up at 5am every morning, ready to hike out there and give it everything he had.

Thursday: The Gallery (Red Rocks) with Stacy (spuzo). Re-evaluated my opinion of Red Rocks, deciding it's a pretty dang cool place after all.
Friday: Arrow Canyon with Joe, Stacy, and Jonathan. Decided limestone is a blast to climb on, despite the fact that you feel like you're easing yourself onto fishhooks with every move by the time the day's over.
Saturday: Welcome Springs with the same group. Different limestone, but still stellar routes. Really technical routes that made me think and work for it. I'd like to put in a request for the scree pile leading up to the crag to be blown off the face of the earth, though.
Sunday: Veyo with the same group. Basalt kicks ass! The sequences on these routes were amazing. Manifest Destiny had a great combo of pump and technical climbing, and Hopscotch was probably my favorite route of the trip. Many thanks to Joe for forcing me to get on it, and for Joe, Stacy, and Johnny for forcing me to get on it again. Those hand jams were amazing, and pulling over the roof involved some of the craziest technique I've ever used.

The trip really re-energized my attitude towards climbing. Also, it showed me that taking a couple weeks off here and there is a good idea, and that you don't have to climb every single weekend in order to climb well and have a blast.

Posted: Tue May 17, 2005 4:15 pm
by KD
:) awsome congrats!

Re: Weekend Reports Anyone?

Posted: Tue May 17, 2005 5:45 pm
by ReachHigh
Don McGlone wrote:
Sunday I finally sent a project on my land in Menifee Co.(sorry Tackett, I couldn't wait any longer!)
It was a fine send that did not come easy on an eye catching line.

Posted: Tue May 17, 2005 6:00 pm
by longlegsrule
Wes wrote: sent Citizen's Arete (.11b my ass).

harder or easier....i HATE aretes and i actually sorta like that thing...


CT Comp was super fun on Sunday!!! Lots of awesome prizes....including a mini ipod!

Posted: Tue May 17, 2005 6:57 pm
by Huggybone
Well, After climbing for ten straight weekends, we decided to take a weekend off- which worked out well, as we both got sick. So, up comes last weekend, and we decide to take it off as well. But, a trip to the gear store, and Alexis was rearing to climb on sunday. So we went (even though a little sick). Had a relaxing day. Climbed Black powder (great warm up), and I redpointed Air-Ride Equipped, which is the steepest 11a I have ever seen, with some rad moves. Ran into Clay and Eric and Andrew and Danny at the solarium.