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Posted: Fri Mar 18, 2005 5:14 pm
by Stewy911
Trad def harder as far as grades go. I can go outside and run right up a 10b or c spoort climb but i klnow I cant go out and run up a 10b crack. I took me several goes to get tradisfaction and once I had it wired it still felt harder than a 10b sport route. Anyways its all subjective!
Hope everyone has a good weekend climbing if your going out
Posted: Fri Mar 18, 2005 5:23 pm
by Wes
Artsay, How many pitches of 5.11 crack do you do a week compared to 5.11 sport? If you lived in Moab, and climbed at Indian Creek every weekend, I have no doubt you would crush 5.11 cracks for a warm up and send 5.12 as easy as you send 5.12 sport now. I have seen people who can do 5.11 trad at the creek for a warm up get beat down on pulling pockets.
I will say that I think face (sport) climbing is more intuitive at first. But once you get over the learning curve for cracks and for placing gear, they are about the same. My redpoint level was the same for both for a long time, and my On-sight leval is still the same for both. Onsighting Jack the Ripper felt about the same as the other couple 11c sport routes I have flashed/onsighted. It is just that we all mostly climb sport at the higher grades around here because there just isn't as much higher end trad.
Wes
Posted: Fri Mar 18, 2005 5:30 pm
by SCIN
I think the confusion comes from the stiff trad ratings on some routes at the Red. Tradisfaction being one of them.
Posted: Fri Mar 18, 2005 8:45 pm
by J-Rock
Ah, shucks... I was originally going to call it a 5.9!
Then I later changed the grade from 10a to 10b after several people commented to me that it was hard for the grade.
Posted: Mon Mar 21, 2005 2:31 pm
by ynot
Sport and trad are just different.
Posted: Mon Mar 21, 2005 2:39 pm
by Sunshine
I think Wes is right on this one. In the Red we climb way more sport than trad. After I had Windy Corner dialed I could do it for a warm-up. Be the beta.
Posted: Mon Mar 21, 2005 4:49 pm
by Alan Evil
Wes wrote:Alan Evil wrote:So a 5.9 crack is equally as difficult as a 5.9 face climb?
Yes, they are. If you think the crack is harder, you just don't know how to climb cracks.
Wes
Actually I've never climbed a 5.9 crack and a 5.9 sport route on the same day which is why I asked. Seems as if it's either sport or trad climbing on a given day out. As much as I try to compare the two in my head I just can't come up with an answer. Part of me wants to say the crack is "easier" than a smooth face because you can lock a fist or fingers. But a 5.9 sport route would have good feet-only rests and multiple choices of holds at most points... I guess I just need to climb more.
Posted: Mon Mar 21, 2005 11:06 pm
by pigsteak
5.9 is 5.9 is 5.9 is 5.9......
Posted: Tue Mar 22, 2005 2:06 am
by lordjim_2001
pigsteak wrote:5.9 is 5.9 is 5.9 is 5.9......
unless it's 5.9+
Posted: Tue Mar 22, 2005 3:48 am
by pigsteak
well said....