Mixed Ratings

Post by **marathonmedic** » Fri Mar 18, 2005 4:42 am

Maybe I'm about to show my ignorance again, but I've got another question.

Since a 5.10 trad line is considered much "harder" than a 5.10 sport route, what's the deal with mixed routes? I'd love to get on some of these things, but I'm afraid the 5.11 rating would be of the crack, not the face. I know it would be just a little bit of work, but how about using a double rating system that rated both the face and the crack?

Post by **Wes** » Fri Mar 18, 2005 4:43 am

Trad crack climbing isn't harder then sport at all. Just different. Anyone who says otherwise is just trying to pad their ego.

Wes

Post by **marathonmedic** » Fri Mar 18, 2005 4:48 am

Okay, I can see that. But my question still stands.

Post by **Alan Evil** » Fri Mar 18, 2005 4:48 am

So a 5.9 crack is equally as difficult as a 5.9 face climb?

Post by **Wes** » Fri Mar 18, 2005 4:50 am

marathonmedic wrote:Okay, I can see that. But my question still stands.

Well, would you want a two ratings for a steep jug haul that turned into a slab at the top?

Wes

Post by **Wes** » Fri Mar 18, 2005 4:51 am

Alan Evil wrote:So a 5.9 crack is equally as difficult as a 5.9 face climb?

Yes, they are. If you think the crack is harder, you just don't know how to climb cracks.

Wes

Post by **marathonmedic** » Fri Mar 18, 2005 6:18 am

I don't to worry about protecting a jug haul.

Post by **J-Rock** » Fri Mar 18, 2005 11:30 am

Just give them a try... and you will probably have some answers. There is usually a considerable amount of variation from route to route. I can recommend several fine mixed routes if you so desire...

Post by **Caspian** » Fri Mar 18, 2005 1:03 pm

Wes wrote:Trad crack climbing isn't harder then sport at all. Just different. Anyone who says otherwise is just trying to pad their ego.

Wes

[ego padding]
I think the notion that trad *feels* harder than sport at the same grade, comes from the fact that it takes longer (generalization) to place gear than it does to clip a bolt. (i.e. if you were to free solo both styles at the same grade, they should feel the same)
[/ego padding]

Post by **Artsay** » Fri Mar 18, 2005 1:47 pm

I have to disagree with ya there, Wes. According to your logic, you and I should both be sending 5.12 cracks.

Crack and sport climbing are different and I do feel that comfort in gear placement definitely adds to how hard or easy a particular trad route can feel. I can't explain why trad is harder for me, personally, but all I know is that I can warm up on 11- sport but 11- trad is very challenging.