Mixed route at Torrent

Post by **Toad** » Wed Mar 16, 2005 6:49 pm

Bolt it. That way the trad climbers that may or may not ever climb it can bitch about it being bolted, and the sport climbers can bitch when the bolts become loose.

Post by **Sunshine** » Wed Mar 16, 2005 6:54 pm

Of course. Why didn't I think of that? I will speak to my master.

Post by **SCIN** » Wed Mar 16, 2005 7:11 pm

Mixed routes are cool when the bolt is eliminating a dangerous runout or something like that. But a bolt right near a bomber gear placement usually seems wierd to me. It's up to the FA though really. You own that route, man. Do with it what you please.

Post by **Sunshine** » Wed Mar 16, 2005 7:30 pm

After all, it is the Red. SCIN, I do believe you are becoming a diplomat!

Post by KD » Wed Mar 16, 2005 8:28 pm

...if you bolt it ...they will come

Post by **alien2** » Wed Mar 16, 2005 9:17 pm

KD wrote:...if you bolt it ...they will come

and take the hangers off.

Post by **Sunshine** » Wed Mar 16, 2005 9:22 pm

Threat or premonition?

Post by **Huggybone** » Wed Mar 16, 2005 9:30 pm

Here is my vote (not that it counts for much).
Take into account that I have not bolted any sport routes, nor will I ever get into it.
From a ethics perspective, I would say, don't bolt if it is not needed. But, from a practical perspective, two things could be considered:
1) What is the difficulty? If the route is easy (sub5.10) then it makes sense to bolt it. Why? to reduce impact and numbers of people waiting in line (which tramples the base) Since the ground is well trampled at torrent, this need not be as big of a consideration.

2) Is it fun to climb as a mixed route?
I love mixed routes. Why? two reasons: 1) no waiting. 2) I get warm and fuzzy when I'm clipping bolts a placing gear. I also love face routes that protect with gear.

My $.02

Post by **Huggybone** » Wed Mar 16, 2005 9:32 pm

Ah. re-read your original post.

Bolt it.

Post by **Toad** » Wed Mar 16, 2005 9:38 pm

haas wrote:I think if nothing else, more hard trad lines gives the Red more overall respect as it is constantly belittled by climbers out west, saying it is only a sport climbers destination and as Sharma once said the routes are "crimp ladders"

Sunshine! Please rethink bolting this line. I know that I really couldn't give a thick, steamy crap as to what climbers on the other side of the country think, but some might. We need their validation!!! Otherwise, we will have to hang our head in shame when we are asked were we are from. Think of the children! Oh, won't somebody think of the children!