RRC Archives

Climbing grades are are based on physical dynamics, how hard is it to go from one hold to the next. Trying to tweak some grade because of some mental factor is an illusion. A route might 'feel' easier if a bolt is added, but is it any easier, no.

I agree with Ho. If it were a trad route it may have an R next to it but the grade wouldn't be any higher. Tuna Town has a crazy long runout at the top but I don't think it's rated harder because of this.

the point of ratings is to tell other climbers about the difficulty of the climbing, not about how someone with no balls might get scared and make the route harder for themselves. if there is a runout on a route then the guide should say so, but not give a route a more difficult rating. as for slashes, i think they can be used, but not on every route. if someone thinks that there is a very justifiable purpose for a slashed grade, than they should post on that route, and other people should comment, politely. Grades should a consensus amongst the rrg climbing community.

If we rated on run-outs we'ld be just as low as those Brits and their E ratings. What a bunch of invertebrate, jellyfish, milksop, Milquetoast, mollycoddle, namby-pamby, sissy, sops.

Split ratings are for John Kerry wanna-be's. Freakin' choose a side and stay with it for god's sake.

good on ya.

boulderguy101,if your idea of being polite is telling someone they don't have any balls, I'm eagerly awaiting your, "crowded table puking...properly" seminar this weekend at miguel's.. Anyway, one can usually tell if a climb is run out or not by just looking at it, don't really need a guidebook for that. However, noticing a run-out I make a mental note of that, look the area over more, than if the same holds had another bolt added. I'm not debating that the rock changes, even though it does. A lot of climbs I've done or have seen in all spectrums of climbing have a psyche rating attached to it if necessary. I know lots of highballs that have number grades added to them because of high topouts. Ice climbing generally gets really tough when the the pro starts to become non-existent. I'm not including dry-tooling because that is almost another sport compared to waterfall ice climbing, but when you can't get good screws in mostly vertical ice it goes up a number grade in difficulty. lot of times it isn't because the climb gets any harder. Trads the same if pro sucks and sport climbing isn't any different. Sorry mountaineers ran out of juice

Roentgen Ray wrote:

Split ratings are for John Kerry wanna-be's. Freakin' choose a side and stay with it for god's sake.

It's general blanket statements like these that digress threads into political nonsense. So, in reponse to that, fuck Bush and his 51% mandate, also, let's not forget that Wild Yet Tasty is a ridiculously fun route, who cares if you need to stroke your ego by calling it an 11d (if it is or it isn't), and by the way, Ro is no 11b (as previously stated), bashing Ro seems to be the trendiest thing I've seen since I started climbing down here, while I haven't been on tons of routes in the gorge, I think it's safe to say these are two ultimate Red classics, so I am going to stick up for them, if you haven't been on them, they are two sweet lines, I highly recommend them,

Nick

Didn't you know that it makes people feel stronger to downgrade routes? Must be some kind of an ego boost or something

Lateralus wrote:Trads the same if pro sucks and sport climbing isn't any different

no it's not.

i don't know shit about ice climbing. luckily this isn't redrivericeclimbing.com though.