RRC Archives

Rumor is that some of the Muir Valley climbs are easier than like-rated climbs elsewhere in the Gorge, so you might not get spanked as bad.

ZSpider

Meadows wrote:

I feel you, but don't worry, you're going to get it, just as I did ... finally. Keep workin' it!

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Thanks for the encouragement. I am training furiously for another shot at it. The thing that sorta bugs me is I suspect that I had it in me to do it then but choked instead. Hafta work on that, too.

ZSpider

Z, I keep telling everyone that First Fall is a 5.8 but nobody would listen to me! The concensus grade is at 9+ right now... There's also a different rumor about routes being old school in Muir... see testaments below:

SCIN wrote:I took a continous beating on the start of Stretcherous at Muir Valley...

Yasmeen wrote:So 5.11+++ doesn't qualify for 5.12a, eh, J-Rock? How old-school are you guys trying to keep Muir Valley?

Thanks, lemmon. I'm heading for First Fall. If the guidebook says it's an 8, then I take credit for an 8. I've got an old guidebook that's got Ro Shampo as a 12, so if I ever redpoint it, I can point to that guidebook and declare my entry into the hallowed ground of the twelves.

I toproped a 10 at Great Wall and it was quite a bit easier than one we did over at Torrent. Or at least that was the consensus of all three of us who climbed them.

ZSpider

Z, Team Muir try their darndest to rate the routes fairly. The grades that we put on the online guide is not only a Team Muir consensus grade (Team Muir consensus can also mean/include 1-5 other climbers to ever climb the route while it was being equipped/cleaned), but is also an onsight grade. Granted, many of these routes will feel easier on toprope and on a fifth try, but if you are trying to onsight it, that grade would be what we put in the online guide. Now, other people who climb it can weigh in their opinion as to what the route felt like on Ray's site (see consensus grade on each route).

Btw, First Fall is a 5.9 online. So far, I am the only one who claims it to be 5.8. Might have been my style or my height or could be having a strong day that day, who knows. It's all relative. But you need to get on it and let me know if you like it... it's a lot of fun!

First Fall has a certain character all its' own.

It's 9 something.It's cool for sure.Different. We did a couple trad 8's at Muir that I thought were 7ish. I have no problem with going with the routsetters grade.

lemmon wrote:

Z, Team Muir try their darndest to rate the routes fairly.

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I didn't mean to be critical, lemmon. I definitely wasn't complaining. The perceived difficulty from person to person is going to vary anyway. I am 100% behind all the great people working on Muir.

Being graded for onsight is an interesting concept, though. I always thought climbs were rated for the easiest way they could be climbed, which usually doesn't happen on an onsite. It's all good.

Next time at The Great Wall I'm gonna try to get the 10 and work the easy 11. WAHOOO!!

ZSpider

Rumor also has it that some of the Muir Valley climbs are harder than like-rated climbs elsewhere in the Gorge, so you might get spanked bad.

J-Rock wrote:

Rumor also has it that some of the Muir Valley climbs are harder than like-rated climbs elsewhere in the Gorge, so you might get spanked bad.

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That would be business as usual for me.

ZSpider