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Posted: Mon Dec 07, 2009 11:50 am
by Andrew
Herd is easier than Blue eyed.
Yall are just doing herd wrong.
Herd 12a Blue eyed 12b
Posted: Mon Dec 07, 2009 1:57 pm
by Wes
Herd might e 11d if you go into the left hueco, but that misses the point and the best climbing on the wall.
I know the consensus grading thing is big, and pretty cool but I just don't think it is all that accurate a lot of the time - very few people are going to down rate their first 10a/11d/12a/14a, etc. Esp. on 8a.nu, where as Zach said, everything is soft, but full points. It would be cool to tie the points to the grade you give it - see how many people are honest, or how many are cashing points.
And, as a last little bit of stirring the pot, while we are downgrading the 12's, we might go ahead and drop the rating at the top as well - seems like from what visiting climbers have done, that a few of the 14's need to drop a letter or two.
Posted: Mon Dec 07, 2009 2:06 pm
by krampus
Personally, I am glad that blue is now 12b, that means I am more likely to send it the next time I am on it. As for supafly, I want my points back.
Posted: Mon Dec 07, 2009 2:19 pm
by tbwilsonky
Sandman wrote: (on side note having an 8a score card is lame)
but reading people's scorecards in sufficient quantities to offer a general critique of the whole game is totally rad.
Posted: Mon Dec 07, 2009 2:55 pm
by SCIN
mike_anderson wrote:I agree with piggy...if it's "all for fun", then why go to the trouble of downgrading routes well below your ability just to piss on someone's birthday? I agree Jesus is easier than Herd, but I'm not such an expert of the nuances of mid-5.12 to unilaterally pinpoint the grade. I thought Supafly was fairly solid, and I've seen a few climbers fail on it that are pretty solid at 12a.
Funny that Hugh mentioned a 12b (Ale 8) to compare Supafly to, or will that be down-rated too?
P.S. Nagy was upgraded to 14a in my book two months ago.
Mike, you're not " an expert of the nuances of" upper 5.13 so why are you saying Nagy is 5.14? You have no clue.
I've done just about every 5.12 in the Red so wouldn't that make me "an expert of the nuances of mid-5.12" in the Red? And a big fuck you for saying I'm pissing on someone's birthday. I should piss on you if I ever meet you.
Posted: Mon Dec 07, 2009 3:00 pm
by bcombs
That sound you hear is the sound of a bitch slap reverberating through the internets.
Posted: Mon Dec 07, 2009 3:18 pm
by tbwilsonky
SCIN wrote: And a big fuck you for saying I'm pissing on someone's birthday. I should piss on you if I ever meet you.
the lesson here: watch where you point your penis. especially when there is piss shooting* out of it.
*: i use "shooting' here because i piss really hard. mid-13's. i understand this is far from the norm, but i have really stout urine and it comes at you really really fast.
in the bastardized words of Vanilla Ice:
"i piss so hard other pissers say damn, if powerful pee was a drug i'd sell it by the gram"
Posted: Mon Dec 07, 2009 3:34 pm
by rastaman
^^^That is some classic shit right there.^^^
Posted: Mon Dec 07, 2009 3:35 pm
by the lurkist
This thread has all the trappings of a 7 pager.
- fervent discussion and downgrading of 5.12s, check
- multiple experts weighing in with their informed opinions, check
- feelings getting hurt, check
- verbal throw downs, oh yeah, check
- quoting Vanilla Ice, one for the ages, check
please carry on.
Posted: Mon Dec 07, 2009 3:41 pm
by the lurkist
btw, on the real side, Scin is doing the necessary job.
to quote Miss Muadie in her explanation to Jim about the kind of man his father is in Harper Lee's "To Kill a Mocking Bird"
". . . there are some men in this world who were born to do our unpleasant jobs for us. Your father's one of them . . . . We're so rarely called on to be Christians, but when we are, we've got men like Atticus to go for us."
THAT IS RIGHT, YOU LITTLE BITCHES- Scin IS our Atticus Finch.
..... God, I love that man.
I am sorry Michelle.