RRC Archives

Bart came a little less then half a body length from onsighting it. However, in the process, he tore one hell of a flapper on the bottom of his hand from the arm barring. So, just have to see if it heals in time for another go. There should be some pics to follow once Steph can get them off her camera.

Wes

Wow, thats insane! Nice job Bart! I would love to see the pictures as soon as you get them back. I put up a picture that my friend took where you can see lucille, but it doesnt do it justice. Where else did you guys go on your trip?

tomdarch wrote:Offwidth-ignorant question:

OK- you get into a hand-fist stack. You shuffle up your feet. So far so good. But how do you then move your hands? Is the only way to get your feet/legs really jammed so that you are at least momentarily 'hands free'?

If you can quite get your knee in yet, you can also use opposing feet. One foot jammed low in the crack pushing down, and one foot jammed in close to your waist pulling your body into the crack. Just tried it for the first time this weekend and it worked quite well. Gets your hands free, but its quite strenuous. Dont think it would work to well for anything greater than vertical though.

I put two pictures in the Album, one a beautiful picture of the ominous roof crack Lucile; the other is one of Bart on his way to the lip of the roof crack. It is an incredible looking route - Good Luck Bart on your next go - she is waiting for you!

To: the trad daddiest

So someone tell me how you climb on arm bars.can you climb arm over arm?

Usually you're gastoning the side of the crack, gaining a lateral knee lock then advancing your arm bar. You usually remain one side in for most routes.

If you're using double arm bars, it's usually just to switch sides.

A stack (hand, fist, hand-fist) requires two hands - hard to move on when both your hands are in one place. So, one option is to move your knee bar up while stacking then change over to an armbar, bump it up and restack. . . repeat as needed.