RRC Archives

[quote="Savage
Are you serious? Are you really that concerned about setting guidelines for a send?
Quit stroking the ego pole and enjoy the sport for what it is...challenging and FUN![/quote]

oh yeah, I am THAT serious. first thing ya know, people will be stepping bolts, pulling on draws thru the crux, top rope rehearsing before leading, and all other sorts of tom foolery.

slippery slope my friend, and I wouldn't want to be caught with my velcro knee pads when the flood gates open. you have been warned.

enjoyment comes from knowing the challenge, and over coming it....if you truly believed it was all about fun and enjoyment, then you would never lead.....only TR. but something in your soul tells you that a lead ascent is "better" than a TR send. I am only extrapolating this out further, and drawing the line in the sand for future generations. you'll thank me later, but I can understand your current exasperation, given that you were probably a gym bred climber. submit to my higher authority , and true joy in life shall be yours.

Savage, that must have been you I heard at miguel's talking about some new method of stick clipping trad climbs. Jesus, you people are weak.

im with you piggie but i'm poor and have some runner draws, are these acceptable?

you should add:
if hot chicks are present - invalid
PCP - invalid
mansex (at any time) - invalid
being strong - invalid
under 16 - invalid
being a minority ( i think arts our only one) - invalid because they have that special tendon or some shit the grand dragon was saying.
and posting your sends here or at miggie's - invalid

pigsteak wrote: I can understand your current exasperation, given that you were probably a gym bred climber. submit to my higher authority , and true joy in life shall be yours.

haha... DAMN IT! You got me there, I started in a gym, but just because you are born in Africa doesnt mean you are black! =)
Honestly, I am all about the "clean" send but I just dont want to see a bunch of pretentious climbers running around trying to sully our good name!

The ultimate D-bag comment I heard a while back (2-3 years ago?):

I was hanging out at Miguel's one night and a young lad (names not to be mentioned) was talking to his friend about how he climbed with so-and-so. The friend asked how hard the guy climbed and the kid replied "he's not very strong, he fell on 12d. Then I sent it barefoot right after him." And yes, the kid climbed it barefoot just to be a prick.

no dif than cool kids climbing in their street shoes, or climbing with shoes untied...it's all a show to remind us how weak we are.

krampus wrote:Savage, that must have been you I heard at miguel's talking about some new method of stick clipping trad climbs. Jesus, you people are weak.

haha, yeah its super easy! All you do it hike to the top of the cliff, find a big tree and rap down. You can plug all your pieces and save the trouble and pump of doing it on lead!

kind of like letting your buddy fuck your drunk girlfriend so you can be a daddy.

by the way, thanks and congrats pops!!

invalid - put the accent on the second i and you have the only true send

Oh man, I hate getting involved, and once vowed never to comment on here again, but here I go anyway.

The send should be from bottom of the route to the top. No Falls, no weighted rope. Draw length should be determinate on bolt placement (bad bolt placement could cause biners to break), rope drag, etc.
You shouldn't be using longer draws to make the route easier. You are just cheating yourself and no one else. (Except the number chasers you are getting close to).
But in all reality legalism is the sin here. If you have just started climbing, and you are getting off on toproping 7's, while the climber on the 12 beside you is bitching about the guy sending the 13 beside him because he clipped the second bolt, who is having more fun? Who is climbing with the purist heart and style?
Legalism is sin.
Have fun and set your own values while climbing for fun. Follow the standards if you are making it a sport.

8a has a topic about this right now too.

Maybe the first person to send a rout was 6'7" and they rated it a 10.a. I'm 5'7." Does that give me a claim to say it was an 11.d because I had to dyno for half the moves?

Lynn Hill says "NO"