RRC Archives

512OW wrote:Hahahaha. IT IS!!! So is The Specimen. Besides, my routes don't count.

Ok, but do you think you can lose sensitivity to routes that are far outside your level of climbing? For example, I can't tell the difference between 5.13b or 5.13c (ie, I can't get off the ground on either one), and I can't tell the difference between 5.4 and 5.5 either.

Sure, but I climbed all those old routes 15 years ago.

The only explanation that I can come with is that 5.6 monkeys flew out of your ass and you were like

You didn't experience the monkeys?

Yea, about 5.9 of em.

Monkeys?!?!?! There are monkeys? Where?? I want monkeys!!!!

512OW wrote: If gyms were all crack climbing based, all the sport climbs would seem sandbagged.

Hey that was my line.

umm ok

i think i know what your saying

even though American football and English football are called the same thing, one is for pussies?

alright, I am not going to read through the past 11 pages of this thread or the several pages of the three other open threads on the same topic so forgive me if this has come up but...Trad and sport are the same, I have to agree with OW on this, I don't want to especially when I am getting trounced by a 5.10 trad climb and crying for my mommie. The truth is that once you figure out the moves, it is still 5.10, the only difference is that I can't train for this move in the gym on a TR, I have to man up and take the whip, sometimes repeatedly. Fear of falling on gear is what makes it hard, if you are afraid to whip then you won't get better. You can train for sport 7 days a week at the gym if you want, but you pretty much have to be outside to train for trad, so of course trad is going to appear harder.

You can train for trad. Just do what the Beene bros. did, look for bridge abutments w/ appropriately sized expansion joints, tape up, and go for it.