whatever happened to onsight climbing???

[Meadows]

and you're right about not having seen me brush tick marks.. but how often do you climb with me?

As much fun as I had last week, I realize not enough.

We could make a game of the brushing scenario - each time you forget while you're hanging, you owe your belayer a beer!!

[J-Rock]

As far as hand drilling versus motorized drilling... a motorized drill is loud, but the hole will often be done in 10 seconds or less. Whereas with a hand drill you will be loudly whacking away at it with a hammer and trying to turn it and drill a straight hole of the proper diameter for a much much longer time. Also, the motorized drills produce a better quality hole that is also more consistent (if done properly) and is much safer and less likely for the bolts to wobble.

[J-Rock]

Even though I don't have a problem with tick marks, I still prefer a non-ticked route to one that has tick marks. My memory is good enough to remember where to grab a hold or place my feet.

I'm not against tick marks. In fact, I have (on rare occassions) tick marked a few climbs and boulder problems for other people to help them with the beta. Also, I often place a tick mark to mark potential bolt locations.

Personally I prefer onsight climbing to "projecting" and I usually don't want beta. This doesn't mean that my way is right or that others are wrong or that I don't project routes. It is just a personal preference for a particular style of climbing.

I do have a problem with routes that are excessively tick marked. If you want to tick mark a route then that's cool and all, but don't be selfish. Clean them off afterwards so that others may have a chance to climb the route without them.

[Paul3eb]

We could make a game of the brushing scenario - each time you forget while you're hanging, you owe your belayer a beer!!

hmm.. i like it. it has potential so long as the prize is delivered at the end of the day rather than while they're still on belay

[Meadows]

I have to say that I think J-Rock has delivered the best persuasive comments.

[pigsteak]

Pigsteak Ruling: Every 13.6 square foot of vertical rock shall have no more than 3 tick marks (one for foot, two for hand).

Corollary: If the wall overhangs more than 20 degrees, one added tick mark will be allowed per 10 degrees of steepness.

Corollary 2: Any schmuck who grabs an over chalked hold will be deemed to have received beta, and any supposed onsight will be null and void. All on sights must be verified by the elitist pricks known as sport climbing snobs. Please submit, in triplicate, your application to www.chalknomore.com, and wait three months for us to say "who the hell cares".

Corollary 3: The Pigsteak Playbook has decided that inner city homelessness and defeating the republican party in 2006 are more virtuous goals at which to direct your passion. Please join Michael Moore or your local food shelter for a real plight on humanity.

[Wes]

pigsteak, What about reverse tick marks (you know, where you brush the chalk away so you can see a little strip of rock)? How many of those are allowed?

[pigsteak]

dear applicant wesley....

reverse tick marks make the rock look pristine, and that is not acceptable. if one cheats and uses these types of graffitti, that will be as much of a mortal sin as using a stick clip to hang the first draw and rope, and then claiming an onsight or redpoint. better to stick to the Playbook and spray about sanctioned routes.

Thanks for your inquiry.

[Meadows]

Man, just glimpsing at that, I thought I saw "Pigsteak Playboy." I'm confused because I thought he was "god damn republican" (my grandpa, circa Nov 2004).

[Spragwa]

We should all pool our money together and purchase a small mosquito infested island with swamps and gators...then make Pigsteak President allowing him unfettered discretion on how to govern said gators and mosquitos...bet they'd listen to him better than we will.