RRC Archives

maybe some corporate sponsor could put a bounty on manked gear that is returned to the manufacturer for recycling?

dustonian wrote:

Dmack wrote:Havent been out there in awhile but watch the biners on Check Your Grip...a super heavy travelled climb with a very sandy base as well as a moderate grade seams like a disaster waiting to happen. That one seams like it wouldnt be to bad to hang and clean on your own draws to...Just a thought

Yeah I agree Dru, those need to come down. It was fine back in August, but by know they may be ready to come down. Good example of a route that doesn't need them, much like Far From God. I think that was part of the "Mank" spree...

Was there a few weeks ago and the draws on the way up were still safe but pretty worn. I doubt they will be safe by the end of spring. One of the anchor biners was sharp but it was attached in a way that I wasn't able to remove it at the time (might need bolt cutters) and someone had already left a replacement. If I remember correctly the anchors will need some work when the biners are removed (chain, quick links, or new steel biners) to provide a good place to rap or lower from.

A similar problem that was addressed via education was toproping through the anchors. Some people still do it, but they typically get politely called out and stop. If "inspect and replace fixed gear" becomes an adage at the Red the way that "don't toprope through the anchors" has become, I think the problem will mostly go away. Awareness seems to be the main issue here, and people tend to me more receptive to being informed than to having rules made up for them. The former makes you feel like a responsible adult; the latter makes you feel like a child.

Even if you still are a child

You're too sweet, Dustin! I accept this potentially unintended subtle compliment.

Wow. Of course I'm a girl!

I don't want to make a bunch of arbitrary rules- that's stupid- the bolt police aren't gonna show up out of nowhere and arrest you if you take draws down or leave them up all year- but if there's a general consensus that aluminum mank has got to go then why not try to agree on how long project draws should stay up and determine a way to differentiate project draws and stuff that is "abandoned"?

Honestly- I think you guys prefer bitching on the internet to actually doing stuff in real life

I think a sign at the parking areas saying:


"If you are projecting a route and you would like to leave your draws up- write the date and your number on a tag on the first bolt draw- it is generally accepted that you can leave your draws up for x days (other people will use them) After x days have passed- people may take your draws down, but if you leave your number- they'll probably call you first (unless they're grumpy that day). This is to prevent sharp edges on worn-out aluminum draws from killing people.

P.S. If you are climbing and notice an aluminum draw is starting to get manky- PLEASE take it down.

Always inspect all gear before use- even apparently "fixed" gear

If you like perma draws- donate to the perma-draw fund and donate regularly to replace them.
And thank the guys at teamsuck with some cold hard cash for replacing those shiny bolts you love so much!"


So- how long should the general project-draw period be? How about yellow tape- then there's no positive/negative association with it?


oh- and we could auction off super-manky stuff to pay for bolt/hanger replacement. Gym-Gumbies love manky draws to use as key rings- it makes them seem legit.

crazyhair wrote:Wow. Of course I'm a girl!

I don't want to make a bunch of arbitrary rules- that's stupid- the bolt police aren't gonna show up out of nowhere and arrest you if you take draws down or leave them up all year- but if there's a general consensus that aluminum mank has got to go then why not try to agree on how long project draws should stay up and determine a way to differentiate project draws and stuff that is "abandoned"?

Honestly- I think you guys prefer bitching on the internet to actually doing stuff in real life

I think a sign at the parking areas saying:


"If you are projecting a route and you would like to leave your draws up- write the date and your number on a tag on the first bolt draw- it is generally accepted that you can leave your draws up for x days (other people will use them) After x days have passed- people may take your draws down, but if you leave your number- they'll probably call you first (unless they're grumpy that day). This is to prevent sharp edges on worn-out aluminum draws from killing people.

P.S. If you are climbing and notice an aluminum draw is starting to get manky- PLEASE take it down.

Always inspect all gear before use- even apparently "fixed" gear

If you like perma draws- donate to the perma-draw fund and donate regularly to replace them.
And thank the guys at teamsuck with some cold hard cash for replacing those shiny bolts you love so much!"


So- how long should the general project-draw period be? How about yellow tape- then there's no positive/negative association with it?


oh- and we could auction off super-manky stuff to pay for bolt/hanger replacement. Gym-Gumbies love manky draws to use as key rings- it makes them seem legit.

https://www.facebook.com/RrgFixedGearEthicsInitiative

Yes! More signs... GREAT... You are as bad as the "bolt police".

Just post 'em next to the gates...

Ah sick another sign! You could put it next the billboards at the parking lot. Better yet, you could set up an excel spread sheet with a sign in roster to log the placement of project draws and you could attach it to the I-phone app. Aww man this is going to be the shit am I am stoked!