RRC Archives

last summer there was an orange glove on a stick stuffed into the crack on Rudy's Project as a red tag. Now that's funny.

Don't put in the bolt and place an R or X after the grade. It would be far more noble to rehearse the route and send it completely trad than to place the bolt.

a bolt on a Trad line.. Thats just plain silly.

Bolt on a Mixed line is way more realistic.

my bad..i thought those things at the top of most trad lines were "bolts"....guess it is in where you drill...sorry to offend you, uh "purists"

so, i can tag it if it is a mixed line? or does that depend on if the bolts are off the ground or at the top?

captain, more "noble" beating it into submission? let me think about that one.... is it more noble to rap off trees than to drill those anchors?

i guess yosemite has very few trad lines, with all those fixed pins and mankt bolts..and just when I thought that yosemite had some decent trad..now I find out they are all mixed routes...man, you traddies must be pissed.

captain static wrote:Don't put in the bolt and place an R or X after the grade. It would be far more noble to rehearse the route and send it completely trad than to place the bolt.

Now you're talking my kind of language

do it ground up, place the bolt from a hook if possible/need be. that is the pure ascent.

Eh, it was already climbed back in the 80's by some guy in high tops using passive gear. When you get near to the top of the route you'll find some knife blades or a piton driven into the crack.

Ho is on to something there, headpointing is fine for the Brits but all these would be hardmen should go to the New and attempt to onsite those mixed lines there.

Let everyone else try it if your ego can handle it. Then when they can't send it you'll feel better about it. It all comes down to time anyway. Whoever puts the most time in or finds the line first usually sends it. It's not a strength thing until you let other people give it some tries. FAs based on strength are cool. FAs based on time are boring. Kind of like that section in the Climbing mag a few months ago where they talk about someone getting the "First Female Ascent" on Paradise Lost. That's just a time based ascent. The route is new so whoever that was just happened to be one of the earlier females to get on that route. It's not like all these uber strong chicks came to the Red to try and send the line for years on end and finally one of them sent it. I mean, First Female Ascent of a notable classic and insanely hard line is something worth mentioning but come on....another 5.13 in the Red? I guess I'm getting off topic.

ho, now I am really confused. if i place this bolt off a hook, didn't i just make it a mixed/aid route?..do i still get to claim a free FA? help please...my gonads are on the line here...