RRC Archives

what's with the tiny type? (just hit "quote" for anyone who's interested)

Anyway, I'm damn glad I both sent it and wasn't the poor bastard who took the ride when it broke.

I was just thinking about a route I did at Wild Iris - there was a ridge you'd grab to clip the anchors. I yarded the @#&?* out of it when I was wrangling the anchors. I moved down the wall to another climb and the next guy who did the route pulled and chunk of the ridge off - about 6" wide, 3" thick and 15" long. Lucky for his belayer, he managed to palm the whole thing and stay in control when it came off.

tomdarch wrote:what's with the tiny type? (just hit "quote" for anyone who's interested)

because i'm sure there are people who are like me that don't like knowing beta, that isn't safety-essential, for a route ahead of time. this way, if they want to read it, they can. if not, then they won't inadvertently do so.

SOrry neuroshock, I misread your feedback on the online guide.

Artsay wrote:That hold didn't always flex. I think maybe about five years it started. That's a pretty long time it lasted seeing as how popular it is.

It flexed the very first time I pulled on it. That was 10 years ago. It was strange. I think I felt it move only a couple of times over the years. Maybe it flexed for everyone the first time they pulled on it and then as an occasional reminder to pull down, not out!

That's strange because Gene was the one who told me (the FA). I could swear that about five years ago he said Dave was climbing it and felt it move. Maybe I just heard incorrectly.

I climbed this climb for the first time on Sunday afternoon and did not feel it move at all. The guy who climbed it immediately before me commented on how much it moved. Who knows...

Artsay wrote:That's strange because Gene was the one who told me (the FA). I could swear that about five years ago he said Dave was climbing it and felt it move. Maybe I just heard incorrectly.

Like I said. It was weird. As the flight simulator instructors always say, "expect the unexpected".

I've climbed that route a ton of times and have never felt it move. I guess it was selective with who it put out for.

I have no doubt that it flexed for many climbers, but it didn't move on me either. However, I pull very lightly on suspect holds or I find another way to climb it.

Artsay, my guess is that you pull down not out. I do have a theroy though. The hold had to be giggled like a key to get it to move. After a certain number of climbers passing by and giggling it then it would move on the next climber.