RRC Archives

After a good top rope send of The Madness, i went on to onsight Mr. Bungles (YES ON SPORT BITCHES)

spent sunday at wall of denial with meetva, rhino, charlie, and christy.. all top notch people. kneebar (the light and love of my life) was there, too, with his pal ed (better not be anything serious). jumped on strick 9 and had a blast. carefully climbed toxic avenger, which was made more interesting with no stick clip and slightly manky holds down low. funhouse was.. well.. fun, though i don't understand why the anchors were placed behind a boulder. it caused a lot of rope drag. the charlie and i got on hair of the dog and had fun finding a way down. the second little pitch has a really fun hand crack.. kind of wished it was hundreds of feet longer. got back to lexington and was reminded that i'm a cheap date, ie: one beer gets me sufficiently buzzed. in my defense i will say i climbed four routes, hiked both ways to wall of denial with a full rack and rope, and only ate an (incredible) egg and spinach bagel (yasi, wanna spit it?) at rro. good people, good climbs, good day. make me happy about climbing again

Sat - Enjoy last day of honeymoon on the beach with my hubby.
Sun - 11 hour drive home.

Saturday was more fun.

got to finally meet some of the antagonists on here..meetVA, sikmonkey, wes, diggum, jarem, meadows (ok, we already met), RRO and others....thanks to all, esp. meetVA, for not beating the shit out of pigsteak upon the first meeting....

I am psyched to move to lexington, and climb more with the locals..everyone has been way cool so far...

Wes wrote:Meadows sent Girls Gone Wild, but no flashing at the top, as per FA request...

WHAT THE HELL?!?!

I rented Harold and Kumar Go to White Castle and then made a slider run. I seriously recommend that movie! I had reservations about it at first, but it's hysterical.

Sunday I watched the gf send her first route ever in the gym.

This weekend she gets to see the Red for the first time.

climbed with three guys from lexington i haven't seen around before. really nice guys at roadside led fadda, and jump for joy - both were fun . tr'ed awol (should go ahead and lead it) did laps on pulling pockets, bouldered stay the hand hardly anybody was there, sunny cool weather, met and talked with tom sowder - very cool guy. had a pretty good day in spite off locking my truck keys at rro in the am. very very mellow day for me - sorta solitary and good for my head. was a gamble but it was really fun climbing with new people. am studying zen again and am rebuilding (recreating) what i do and how i look at life. fuck counselling - this is really fun

Saturday I climbed an interesting route that required foot jams above my head and several double kneebars while I desperately clawed my way up a steep flared crack that was choked with dirt, grime, mud, and friable holds. It was about 80 feet tall... I later added a bolt to each of the two roofs. However, I wouldn't recommend this route to anybody unless they find pleasure in pain. I called it "Primordial Dissonance" and I don't have a clue what to grade it.

The highlight my weekend was climbing J.J.'s new route under the Great Arch. It was totally unlike any route that I had ever climbed in the Red and it felt more like something from HP40 or New River on perfect rock and some wild slopers. He called it "Lip Service". It was definitely one of my favorite routes ever! I thought I was going to onsight it, but I popped off of the crux sloper as my fingers were just starting to grasp the good edge after the crux. The climbing was technical and sustained with several varied cruxes and a really cool slopey boulder problem in the middle.

Sunday Karla bolted a hundred foot sport route and I found a 5.11 version of "Boltergeist" with a cool middle section that required slapping and squeezing your way up a blunt arete for 20-30 feet. It still needs 3 more bolts and some cleaning...

I can't wait to return in two weeks... but I'm also looking forward to New River this coming weekend.

KD wrote: met and talked with tom sowder - very cool guy.

Tom Souders - Original Beene Brother. Notable FAs: Pink Feat, B3, The Quest, Basecamp, Unsportsmanlike Conduct, What's Left of the Beeneling, Inhibitor(!!), Windy Corner and plenty more.

Oh yeah, I also went bushwhacking and ventured across an area where there was a considerable amount of dead fall from recent logging and as I was climbing up, over, around, and through several of the fallen trees I stumbled and fell to the ground. I landed on the biggest rat snake that I have ever seen! He didn't seem at all bothered by my presence and fortunately he was an agreeable fellow and did not strike at me. Then as I was getting up I saw three pink lady slippers. Somehow I got poison ivy in the process for the second time this year... Oh well...

Maybe it was jungle karma. I also felt a great disturbance in the force while cleaning a route when I removed a chunk of sod from a crack only to discover that I had decimated an entire ant civilization. I am a bad bad man... perhaps I am being punished with the poison ivy?

mna can't believe the black rat didn't strike, those things are mean