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Posted: Fri Feb 11, 2005 9:40 pm
by Wes
"While it is true that there is nothing like being out in the mountians with the birds and all that. When it comes to getting stronger; to tourturing yourself and getting better - it is all about the plastic"*

Josh Lowel, dosage vol. 1

* From memory, so it might not be 100% correct.

I like gym sessions with friends. I love being able to drink a red bull put my shoes on, trash myself for an hour and a half, then take them off, knowing that I am now a stronger climber.

So, yes plastic will help you, as long as you push yourself on it.

Wes

{edited because I am drinking at 12:00. Rest days are cool}

Posted: Fri Feb 11, 2005 9:42 pm
by pigsteak
plastic is for piggies!!!

Posted: Fri Feb 11, 2005 9:51 pm
by usccabum1985
Bouldering WILL help your climbing power and technique. I came off of a three month bouldering spree and could climb a little harder, and not get so wiged out at a Crux. Breaking down a route you ( dont kill me) have some filler, a crux and more filler. routes like this will show your improvment provided you still have some endurence. on more sustaned stuff you could be SOL, do your traverses. Personaly I couldent stand the thought of leading in a gym, ( its a gym and there are 5.6 jugs ontop of a harder route) but I have found that I can put draws in the cave and when doing a hard problome picke a shity clip. this keeps me in shape to lead the more vertical climbs, I have no endurence. but long story short, add some bouldering to your workout and in a few months youll see a diffrence

Posted: Sat Feb 12, 2005 12:04 am
by pigsteak
ussc, have you ever climbed at the red? it's an old ax, but climbs here don't have cruxes...they are graded by length and steepness....80 feet of 5.8 moves on a 30 degree overhung wall? ... 5.12b

just take the single hardest move on a red river route..let's say, a 12a line....build a three move boulder problem of 5.6 holds..now repeat that problem 36 times, and you will send 12a at the Red...it really is that simple.

Posted: Sat Feb 12, 2005 12:24 am
by ynot
Bouldering at the gym rocks! You learn stuff and most of you get stronger.
It's awesome for beginners,Diggum.You will see your biggest improvements.

Posted: Sat Feb 12, 2005 12:59 am
by frzsnow
Bouldering in a gym or in the off season seems to keep my body trained to move in different directions, pull on differently shaped and angled holds, and keep my footwork up to par. Pullups and pushups keep you strong but there's no substitute for going through the actual motions of climbing.

Posted: Sat Feb 12, 2005 2:45 am
by rockstar
wes- actually you are a weaker climber after workin out. you have trashed your body and only after you rest are you stronger.

frzsnow-going through the actual motions of climbing??? so you don't enjoy climbing, just go through the motions? that sucks. i am sorry. :twisted:

Posted: Sat Feb 12, 2005 3:32 am
by longlegsrule
rockstar wrote:wes- actually you are a weaker climber after workin out. you have trashed your body and only after you rest are you stronger.
I understood what you meant Wes!! :wink:

Posted: Sat Feb 12, 2005 8:43 am
by davetieri
So the best training for climbing IS climbing? Wow.

Posted: Sat Feb 12, 2005 1:38 pm
by rockstar
SUPRISING AIN'T IT?