RRC Archives

rhunt wrote:I think I understand what you are saying. Wild Yet Tasty and Ro Shampo were my first 12a's until people started calling them 11d.

Wild yet Tasty might have been your first 12a but Ro Sham Po was rated 11c by the group of folks who did the first few ascents. 12a for that route is just plain wrong.

Buster wrote:Wild yet Tasty might have been your first 12a but Ro Sham Po was rated 11c by the group of folks who did the first few ascents. 12a for that route is just plain wrong.

your right, I was thinking more like 11b, I mean shit it's a freaking jug haul.

Buster that makes a lot more sense. I think .11c at the very hardest is accurate for Ro. There is no way ROCS and Ro are the same difficulty. The crux isn't that bad and it's not very far off the deck, beyond that is easy jug hauling with no runout. I'd say .11d on Wild Yet Tasty, as the move is imo tougher than the crux of Ro and you have a bit of a runout on top which adds to the difficulty.

Lateralus wrote:...and you have a bit of a runout on top which adds to the difficulty.

how?

how not?

why would a runout at the top add to the difficulty? No risk of decking in the event of a fall? That's a mental advantage. Longer time before having to clip a bolt? That's a physical advantage. When I'm placing gear, I almost always run it out near the top. So what do you mean?

What he(Horatio Felacio) means is the route/moves/holds don't change just because of a lack of protection. But I agree, runouts do make a climb *feel* harder.

Sandy wrote:why would a runout at the top add to the difficulty? No risk of decking in the event of a fall? That's a mental advantage. Longer time before having to clip a bolt? That's a physical advantage. When I'm placing gear, I almost always run it out near the top. So what do you mean?

for most climbers the thought of taking a whipper on Wild Yet Tasty adds to the difficulty of the route, if not I think you'd see a everyone (not just badasses or people that have routes wired) skipping clips that "aren't necessary". I know personally I tend to tighten up and get tunnel vision when I'm confronted with a run-out onsite adding to the difficultly etc...

I just thought back on what I remembered about the climb--> a distinct one move wonder, with a somewhat spicy (physically easy) finish. Take the same moves and add a bolt to it and the climb would have been called Tasty I think and easier to onsite.

what goes through a climbers head has nothing to do with the grade. some people are headcases, some are not, and most are in between. all i'm saying is that i think it's stupid to start bumbing route grades up just because of a runout. only a sport faggot would do such a thing.

I hear you Horatio, that's why I propose we down grade all the sport climbs on the on-line guide! Fucking sport faggots always bitchin about the grades, go back to the gym bitches