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Posted: Tue Nov 16, 2004 8:11 pm
by marathonmedic
longlegsrule wrote:marathonmedic wrote:how big is a biggun?
bigguner than you...
true dat.
Lateralus wrote:anyone mistakenly berate their poor belayers after taking a hefty fall, like you pulled them 10-15 feet off the deck (turning what you thought was going to be a 15-footer into a 30 footer) and you thought they were just sleeping on the
job
I've certainly questioned my belayer about the amount of slack that might have been out, but hopefully I never accused them of anything!
Posted: Tue Nov 16, 2004 8:20 pm
by goodguy
I've taken 2 big falls.
30+ on B3
35ft. on Amelia's Birthday route.
Loads of fun.
Posted: Tue Nov 16, 2004 8:39 pm
by Lateralus
rhunt, which is which definitely had me spooked right where you are talking about, I would have tried to end it below the ledge
Posted: Tue Nov 16, 2004 9:08 pm
by rhunt
Lateralus wrote:rhunt, which is which definitely had me spooked right where you are talking about, I would have tried to end it below the ledge
Me too! I still count it as a redpoint though!
It's a two star route at best because of the rock quality.
Posted: Tue Nov 16, 2004 9:48 pm
by Lateralus
meaning I would have put the anchors below the ledge, imo the top bit detracted from the quality of the route as you concur
Posted: Tue Nov 16, 2004 9:55 pm
by rhunt
Lateralus wrote:meaning I would have put the anchors below the ledge, imo the top bit detracted from the quality of the route as you concur
exactly..
what I meant was i counted it as a redpoint even though the hold broke and I fell.
Posted: Tue Nov 16, 2004 10:25 pm
by Yasmeen
Goodguy, I know what you mean-- I took the biggest whippers of any route, sport or trad, on B3. It was a great route for getting used to climbing way past your gear. I don't think I'm done being in love with that route yet. *sigh*
Posted: Tue Nov 16, 2004 11:39 pm
by Sunshine
Here's how to tell how far you may fall. I call it doing the math.
1. Double the distance you are from your last pro. Say 10 ft.
2. Multiply how much rope is out by 30%. ( dynamic rope strech). Say 50 ft.
3. Add some slack or a hero loop. Say 5 ft.
5. Add in a soft catch. Say 5 ft.
1.= 20 ft.
2.= 15 ft.
3.= 5 ft.
4.= 5 ft
Now, if my math is correct, you are looking at a 45 footer!
Posted: Tue Nov 16, 2004 11:44 pm
by Meadows
Do you really do all that math in the moment you think you might fall? Just curious.
Posted: Tue Nov 16, 2004 11:52 pm
by Sunshine
No. I do the math before climbing. It is easier to use a calculator on the ground.