Lateralus wrote:anyone mistakenly berate their poor belayers after taking a hefty fall, like you pulled them 10-15 feet off the deck (turning what you thought was going to be a 15-footer into a 30 footer) and you thought they were just sleeping on the
job
I've certainly questioned my belayer about the amount of slack that might have been out, but hopefully I never accused them of anything!
Oh man, he is messing that up. However, he is missing his left leg so that way would probably be harder for him. SCIN, just before spraying some beta for a climber doing a route the WRONG way.
Goodguy, I know what you mean-- I took the biggest whippers of any route, sport or trad, on B3. It was a great route for getting used to climbing way past your gear. I don't think I'm done being in love with that route yet. *sigh*
"I snatched defeat from the jaws of victory." --Paul
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(Emails > PMs)
Here's how to tell how far you may fall. I call it doing the math.
1. Double the distance you are from your last pro. Say 10 ft.
2. Multiply how much rope is out by 30%. ( dynamic rope strech). Say 50 ft.
3. Add some slack or a hero loop. Say 5 ft.
5. Add in a soft catch. Say 5 ft.
1.= 20 ft.
2.= 15 ft.
3.= 5 ft.
4.= 5 ft
Now, if my math is correct, you are looking at a 45 footer!
So now you'd better stop and rebuild all your ruins,
For peace and trust can win the day despite of all your losing-- Zep
