RRC Archives

i doubt they'd been so relaxed about the fall had it been from the next bolt down. people amaze me.

bcombs wrote:Someone in the background was putting some effort into AWOL.

Sorry, but I don't know any other way to successfully send AWOL.

Up Yonder is a sweet climb, it took me a bunch of attempts to finally send it, so I guess I too was projecting it. I pitched at the same crux several times - no "law eight" belay technique used luckily.

I was more referring to the searching for holds. It looked more like an on-site attempt would look and less like someone with some experience on the route.

bcombs wrote:Is it really projecting when you are searching for every hold on a 5.11?

Now I know how every piece of shit sloper gets equal chalk love. Every time, he would grab the obvious hold, then try the shit holds and then go back to the jug. Also, in his defense maybe Up Yonder was a route he intends to project. I can still remember every move on Wildfire when I projected that this year (12 RP attempts)... when I sent it it took me less than 2 minutes.

Nah, who am I kidding- climbers/belayers employing the "Law 8" method don't project, they just take a victory whip from whatever bolt they make it to...

also, the climber put his leg behind the rope

Awesome vid. I love the fat belayer telling the skinny guy he underestimated his weight.

Shamis, I fully agree, I thought the same thing when I heard that! I laughed my ass off when I watched that.

In their defense I think we all did really stupid shit when we were noobs. I am glad they lived through it. Maybe next time somebody that knows what they are doing will give them some advice.

Way to lock off the brake hand.

I don't think the belayer was doing a one hand spot at the beginning. I think he was blessing the climber. He didn't die, so it must have worked.

"Dude...you are heavier than I thought" ~ yeah that was all about weight difference.

Pigsteak - he wasn't one hand spotting - he was praying for him...he needed it.

This was a beautiful video! Perfectly answers the question, "how can we be having so many accidents at the red". It's like video evidence, what not to do while belay. I am sure they both thought it was a totally normal event in a climbing day. And as for the climbing - "this is how you know you are not ready for the redpoint attempt" But on the bright side, his shirt was off the shades were on, so it was cool.....dude.