Bad belay or just really good at lowering?

Gaston? High Step? Drop Knee? Talk in here.
User avatar
cliftongifford
Posts: 649
Joined: Thu Dec 27, 2007 11:57 am

Re: Bad belay or just really good at lowering?

Post by cliftongifford »

i doubt they'd been so relaxed about the fall had it been from the next bolt down. people amaze me.
Brentucky
Posts: 869
Joined: Tue Jun 26, 2007 2:04 am

Re: Bad belay or just really good at lowering?

Post by Brentucky »

bcombs wrote:Someone in the background was putting some effort into AWOL.
Sorry, but I don't know any other way to successfully send AWOL.
efil lanrete... i enjoy the sound, but in truth i find this seductively backward idea to be quite frightening
User avatar
michaelarmand
Posts: 527
Joined: Fri Mar 23, 2007 1:08 pm

Re: Bad belay or just really good at lowering?

Post by michaelarmand »

Up Yonder is a sweet climb, it took me a bunch of attempts to finally send it, so I guess I too was projecting it. I pitched at the same crux several times - no "law eight" belay technique used luckily.
I've been a gumby longer than you've been climbing.
User avatar
bcombs
Posts: 2048
Joined: Sun Nov 02, 2003 4:20 pm

Re: Bad belay or just really good at lowering?

Post by bcombs »

I was more referring to the searching for holds. It looked more like an on-site attempt would look and less like someone with some experience on the route.
User avatar
climb2core
Posts: 2224
Joined: Wed Jun 02, 2010 4:04 pm

Re: Bad belay or just really good at lowering?

Post by climb2core »

bcombs wrote:Is it really projecting when you are searching for every hold on a 5.11?
Now I know how every piece of shit sloper gets equal chalk love. Every time, he would grab the obvious hold, then try the shit holds and then go back to the jug. Also, in his defense maybe Up Yonder was a route he intends to project. I can still remember every move on Wildfire when I projected that this year (12 RP attempts)... when I sent it it took me less than 2 minutes.

Nah, who am I kidding- climbers/belayers employing the "Law 8" method don't project, they just take a victory whip from whatever bolt they make it to...
Savage
Posts: 249
Joined: Wed Nov 05, 2008 11:43 am

Re: Bad belay or just really good at lowering?

Post by Savage »

also, the climber put his leg behind the rope
Shamis
Posts: 1343
Joined: Tue Jan 02, 2007 12:11 pm

Re: Bad belay or just really good at lowering?

Post by Shamis »

Awesome vid. I love the fat belayer telling the skinny guy he underestimated his weight. :lol:
User avatar
ynp1
Posts: 1324
Joined: Thu Sep 16, 2004 10:54 pm

Re: Bad belay or just really good at lowering?

Post by ynp1 »

Shamis, I fully agree, I thought the same thing when I heard that! I laughed my ass off when I watched that.

In their defense I think we all did really stupid shit when we were noobs. I am glad they lived through it. Maybe next time somebody that knows what they are doing will give them some advice.
I don't have haters, I have fans in denial.
OZ
Posts: 129
Joined: Fri Jun 04, 2004 3:55 pm

Re: Bad belay or just really good at lowering?

Post by OZ »

Way to lock off the brake hand.

I don't think the belayer was doing a one hand spot at the beginning. I think he was blessing the climber. He didn't die, so it must have worked.
rhunt
Posts: 3202
Joined: Thu May 29, 2003 12:02 pm

Re: Bad belay or just really good at lowering?

Post by rhunt »

"Dude...you are heavier than I thought" ~ yeah that was all about weight difference.

Pigsteak - he wasn't one hand spotting - he was praying for him...he needed it.

This was a beautiful video! Perfectly answers the question, "how can we be having so many accidents at the red". It's like video evidence, what not to do while belay. I am sure they both thought it was a totally normal event in a climbing day. And as for the climbing - "this is how you know you are not ready for the redpoint attempt" But on the bright side, his shirt was off the shades were on, so it was cool.....dude.
"Climbing is the spice, not the meal." ~ Lurkist
Post Reply