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Re: Sucking at Torrent Falls- Bare Metal Teen

Posted: Mon Nov 15, 2010 4:57 pm
by Andrew
JR wrote:Is Bare Metal harder than Chainsaw?

About the same

Re: Sucking at Torrent Falls- Bare Metal Teen

Posted: Mon Nov 15, 2010 5:03 pm
by dustonian
Besides, everyone knows the hardest 12a in the Red is really Freakin Deacon!

Re: Sucking at Torrent Falls- Bare Metal Teen

Posted: Mon Nov 15, 2010 5:34 pm
by bcombs
IMO, I think the pump factor on Chainsaw is more noticeable. If you get to the next to last bolt on BMT, you'll likely send. The top is super easy. Nothing is in the bag on Chainsaw until the anchors are clipped.

Re: Sucking at Torrent Falls- Bare Metal Teen

Posted: Mon Nov 15, 2010 9:10 pm
by Green3
Agreed. Hardest 12a = Mama Benson, then Chainsaw, then BMT. Freakin Deacon would be up there, but you can shove both legs into the shelf for a huge rest on jugs.

Re: Sucking at Torrent Falls- Bare Metal Teen

Posted: Mon Nov 15, 2010 11:00 pm
by pigsteak
pffft...I've been told by PAWilkes that many of my 11ds are the hardest 12as in the gorge..you chuffers need to learn to spray better.

Re: Sucking at Torrent Falls- Bare Metal Teen

Posted: Tue Nov 16, 2010 1:33 am
by shear
Mama Benson is all 5.11 to one move of V2. does not = hardest 12a in the red. Might as well call Abiyoyo the hardest 12b too then...

Re: Sucking at Torrent Falls- Bare Metal Teen

Posted: Tue Nov 16, 2010 1:55 am
by tbwilsonky
maybe i'm just being a pessimist, but this whole 'hardest' debate is probably not going to be resolved without a rigorous scientific approach. for some methodological pointers please refer to 8a.nu - the home of climbing science.

Re: Sucking at Torrent Falls- Bare Metal Teen

Posted: Tue Nov 16, 2010 3:17 pm
by Green3
I sent Shanghai before sending Mama Benson. Maybe it was some kind of mental block, or bad beta or something, but that thing is f'ing hard. I'm going purely by number of tries, with Mama Benson even being climbed after Chainsaw and BMT, when I was climbing a lot more.

Maybe you guys have strong fingers, but at least for me, it is pretty unequivocal, that thing had a much harder move than any of the pure pump climbs, and even if it is 5.11 climbing before, it was enough climbing to make that crux hard. Clearly it was different for you, but I've talked to many people who agree that Mama Benson is a pissed off rock climb.

Re: Sucking at Torrent Falls- Bare Metal Teen

Posted: Tue Nov 16, 2010 4:15 pm
by vertical1
I agree that Mama Benson is hard, that move sucks even off the hangdog. I get there not even pumped, and struggle.