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Re: The Best of the Best 5.12's (all grades)
Posted: Thu Nov 04, 2010 12:53 pm
by vertical1
Mercy the Huff definitely needs to be added to that list. A Super classic!
Re: The Best of the Best 5.12's (all grades)
Posted: Thu Nov 04, 2010 1:15 pm
by climb2core
Thanks for the responses... I appreciate it!!! I think I will go jump on some of the "soft" 13s you all mentioned and figure out which ones seems to suit my style. I think I would call my style more balanced than anything... no super endurance and not a super strong boulderer. So something with multiple moderate crux's and some good places to recover (no hands would be nice
I just climb quick when it is hard!!!
Artsay, sending you a PM momentarily...
Hey, also wanted to take a second to thank all the people out there that spend their time and money putting up all these great routes! I had a chance to meet one last week in person at the Gallery and say thanks to him. So to all the others...
Thanks again! Much appreciated.
Re: The Best of the Best 5.12's (all grades)
Posted: Thu Dec 23, 2010 9:35 pm
by heavyc
I would add Super Best Friends, Far from God and The Crucible to your list of must do 12's, I would also vote for Hoofmaker as the easiest 13a in the Red and I would consider myself an authority on this as unfortunately I have always been a number chaser, I think Table of Color's crux is considerably harder for two reasons: it's higher on the route and you will be more tired before trying to do it and 1/4 to 1/8th pad crimps in the Table crux are not my strong point, in addition if you are tall then the Hoofmaker boulder problem probably is even easier yet, good luck, I hope they all go down in 2011
Re: The Best of the Best 5.12's (all grades)
Posted: Thu Dec 23, 2010 9:53 pm
by climb2core
I got on Far from God in October and it is on the list too...great route, just endurance! Also totally agree with Super Best Friends! Saw people whipping at the lip while I was working Magnum and it looked like a blast.
After hearing about Pawilkes get shut down on Table, I also would tend to agree with Hoofmaker. I am 5'11, but have gorilla long arms so that should help
Thanks for advice. I am starting to get psyched already which is making it easier to be motivated to train hard for the next 3-4 months inside.
Re: The Best of the Best 5.12's (all grades)
Posted: Thu Dec 23, 2010 11:50 pm
by THB
Yeah, don't get on Table, it's a pile... actually you should just avoid Left Flank... all of those routes are total piles!
Re: The Best of the Best 5.12's (all grades)
Posted: Fri Dec 24, 2010 4:08 am
by allah
Easiest 13a is Paradise Lost! it is has a sit down rest half way through! DO IT!
Re: The Best of the Best 5.12's (all grades)
Posted: Fri Dec 24, 2010 4:50 am
by THB
haha! yea... paradise lost is so easy i think it should get bumped to 12d...
Re: The Best of the Best 5.12's (all grades)
Posted: Fri Dec 24, 2010 3:38 pm
by climb2core
allah wrote:Easiest 13a is Paradise Lost! it is has a sit down rest half way through! DO IT!
RRRRRRight Allah... I know how you grade your shit and I tried to climb your "easy" boulder problems when you used to set at VA! But I will get on it, looks like a super aesthetic line
Re: The Best of the Best 5.12's (all grades)
Posted: Fri Dec 24, 2010 3:43 pm
by climb2core
THB wrote:Yeah, don't get on Table, it's a pile... actually you should just avoid Left Flank... all of those routes are total piles!
Yeah, couldn't agree more about Left Flank... Choss piles like Mercy, Stunning the Hog, Infectious, and Too man Puppies. It is amazing that it ever got bolted.
Re: The Best of the Best 5.12's (all grades)
Posted: Sat Dec 25, 2010 4:38 am
by THB
exactly my point!